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rear cv joint conversion...

sss1600
sss1600
in 240K Skyline

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comment_114535

Hi have done the conversion before. I used skyline R30 ales, but I had to shorten the shafts. If you go down that path, make sure the fabrication company you use does a good job on the welds. I broke 3 ales before they got it right.

There is nothing worst than having to climb under a car on the side of the road and replace a busted axle.

  • 1 year later...
comment_198713

I cannot remember how much to shorthen them. But it's pretty easy to work out. Jack up the rear or the car so that both wheels are off the ground and measure the length of the axle. That's you max length. I then removed a spring, but left the shocker in. Compress the wheel up as far as it will go. Measure the short length. Putting the spring back in and dropping the car back on the ground, bouncing on it a couple of times to make it come to rest. Measuring the axle length now should be half way (mid length).

You need your CV axles to reflect the same measurements.

The danger is if the axle is too long or short, the following will happen:

1) To Long: When you drive over a hard bump and the spring compresses, you will hear a loud bump in the rear end. The same can occur when performing a tight turn whilst applying power. This is casing the axle to compress and effectively hitting/banging the axle into the side of the diff.

2) To Short: Travelling over a crest of a hill or becoming airbourne and the axles will extend to it's maximum and if the wheel needs to travel further downward, it willpop the axle out of the side of the diff. This type of driving condition does not happen as often as the first instance above.

I aird on the side of caution and made my axles 5 to 8 millimeters on the short side.

From memory, it cost me about $75 to $90 AUS to shorted each axle, but that was ten years ago.

The only other thing I could think of that could possibly cause and issue is that if you were planning to put a wider R200 diff in, then you better check the maximum angle that the CV joint can move. This would become a concern when the diff is wider, the axle needs to be a lot shorter. When the wheel is at maximum downward travel, the CV joint will be at max angle. If the CV cannot made the angle, then I don't think it will last to long.

  • 2 weeks later...
comment_199915

Does anyone know if the R30 flange will fit the 240K axle ?

also. can I remove the Uni-Joint flage comming out of the diff, via the bolt, and put the R30 drive shaft into the diff ?, or do I need to install the R30 diff into my 240K ?

Nigel

comment_199957

Nigel,

I changed the Diff, I do not beleive you can change shafts on the original K diff.

For the life of me, I cannot remember what flanges I used. But being that I used a R30 Diff and Axles, there is a good change I used the flanges as well. But, something keeps me thinking I needed something off a 240Z (not 240K) and it migh have been the flanges.

Have you tried to fit the flanges? Did the dust cover fowel on the stub bearing case? Or does it spin freely?

comment_199965

I haven't tried it yet, since my 240K is my daily drive,

but I now have a clicking sound from the rear when I apply power and take if off, sounds a bit like a uni joint dying, so I'll have a look at the flange when I fix the drive shaft.

Nigel

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