ALUMILITE casting resin

[1GENZED]

Hi

I was not sure where to place this post, because of its potential applications

I came across this product on a lotus site.

http://www.unibrain.org/gallery/casting?page=1

It would be really handy to be able to duplicate minor plastic pieces that are impossible to get.

You could even use the metalic resins to replicate rare badges and trim pieces, like the paintless z quarter emblems.

http://www.alumilite.com/

Anyway thought somone else might find it handy.

Ahmed

[panchovisa]

Ahmed, it (and many other resins) would have applications.

I have 25 years experience making molds and parts from many different kinds of pourable epoxy/urethane/silicone/plaster/etc products. None of them are as easy to use as advertized.

Open faced molds are easiest. Closed molds with multiple parting lines/cores/loose pieces are the most complicated to vent and fill completely.

A vacume chamber is needed to de-gass any resins mixed with power tools. Urethanes have a very short pot life and spped is required to mix components thourghly, de-gass, and pour before hardening (less than 5 minutes for some).

Cleanliness is paramount, proper mold prep, and correct release agents are all key to sucess.

[26th-Z]

Funny you should bring up this subject. I just attended a seminar for mold making and casting.

http://www.rubbermoldcompounds.com/

[panchovisa]

Most of the molds I poured into were rigid (wood/aluminum/or combinations) for dimensional accuracy. Most of my cast pieces were aluminum ao Iron oxide filled epoxies (also for dimensional accuracy and durability).

The surface tension between the mold and exact cast were amazingly high! I always used to "hang" a block of mahogany to embed it into the center of my cast. Whenit came time to seperate the cast from the mold I would use a 1/2" thick piece of steel resting on 1" spacers straddeling the mold.

I would screw big lag screws through 1/2" steel into embeded wood block. It would take many lag screws to apply gradualy increasing tension (sometimes 1/2" bar would bend the full distence of 1" spacers!!!!!) before the surface tension would release. The cast would fly 6" out of mold!! This was with proper mold prep and release agents.

A very sick feeling when you fear you will NEVER seperate the cast from the mold.

[1GENZED]

I was thinking of very small parts.

They seem to be using a silicone based mold compound that is flexible.

this would get rid of the suction problem with a rigid mold.

I remember ED was looking for the wiring harness grommet that went into the firewall.

He could cast a new one using his original piece, and dimensional accuracy does not have to be absolutely perfect because it is rubber after all.

[hls30.com]

That is pretty much what my solution was. with one exception, All of the pieces I have made have come out far superior when 28-29 inches of mercury was involved every step of the way(mixing the molding and casting compounds, and immediately after casting).

Will

I am now waiting on my fourth generation of casting materials

-including dimensionably machining wax for cast aluminum casting.

Will

[1GENZED]

Hi Will

just wondering but can you elaborate on "far superior when 28-29 inches of mercury was involved every step of the way"

Ahmed

[hls30.com]

Ahmed,

Just after mixing both the molding and casting materials, degass each under 28-29 inches of mercury (vacuum)-to get rid of bubbles-for 2 to 5 minutes, and subject the mold to the same immediately after filling-no bubbles and greater detail. For the small parts it works very well, obviously, in casting a console, you need a pretty good size vacuum chamber.

I am hoping to offer some reproduction parts before too much longer. I want to make sure they aren't going to fade, chalk, melt, or otherwise create problems for a buyer, and get some of our hardcore members to check out their quality before I make them available.

Will

[26th-Z]

I didn't realize you guys were into making molds and casting parts. Thought I was on to something new! Evidently not. What are you making, Will?

[hls30.com]

In progress:

1) Interior light lens-got to get the right material-led use fine, bulb use no-I want one product that does both!

2) Trims for the taillights(chrome piece in the middle).

3) Series 1 complete Ashtray assembly-exploring the trim ring for the lighter socket.

4 and 5) Consoles for series 1 and series 2-exploring a source for series 2 trim ring

6) Map light housing.

7) Series 2 fuse box cover.

8) Special projects-parts that look like they belong, but didn't come from the factory!

9) Auto Shifter Plate.

10) Eds gromitt.

1,2, and 3, are really close to being ready to send out for evaluation. probably some time next week-waiting on materials for a final cast or for one last mold correction.

4,and 5, are waiting on a vacuum chamber of enough size to accomodate them to see if the frames I have made for the molds are strong enough-probably a longer wait.

6,7,8,and 9, are waiting for mold materials to allow me to correct the molds for the first(and hopefully the last-probably not) time.

10) I pulled a pretty bad of sample of the gromitt Ed needs form a '73 day before yesterday, it needs quite a bit of work to be complete enough and strong enough to serve as a basis for a mold, but I am moving it into this group to get it ready for him.

Planned:

Seatbelt mechanism boots (the rubber covering on the recievers).

Auto Shifter handles.

Emergency brake handle grip.

Hood pull.

Improved a/c duct work.

Series 2 Ashtray pull.

Radio climate control faceplates for pre 73 and 73-faceplatres only!

Special projects that look like Nissan designed them for the car, but Nissan had no idea!.

What I am doing is finding the best quality parts I can to mold from so that there isn't a great deal of "correction" to do to the mold. This "correction" has been by far the longest part of the process.

I will not duplicate any parts that are already out there or still available(to my knowledge), unless they are just way too high to buy, or too difficult to find in great shape.

I am also working on a couple of other suprise parts that Nissan never made, but I think most of you guys will love! I will send one or two out to members here and let them start a thread on how stupendous or stupid they are after having a while to look at, hold, mount, and live with them. I hate getting all excited about a purchase only to find out it really wasn't ready to be sold yet. Once again, I want the most anal among us to be satisfied.

I should be ready to send out some pieces in a couple of weeks-before I start getting PMs, I have already picked the people who will be "reviewing" the pieces, and I will ask for their participation before sending anything out.

Will

[kats]

Hi,I do not know much about these technique but

I wish someone replicate following parts,if they are made,I am sure I buy them.

#1 A rubber grommet for anntenna drain tube

#2 R & L seat cushion plastic side protector

#3 A rear deck inner weatherstrip early(76912-E4100)

#4 5 Bridgestone superspeed radial-20 175-SR14!!!!

Thank you,

kats

[hls30.com]

The tire is a bit much fore me!

The weatherstip would definitely be a challenge, but someone probably already has it.

The other pieces could be done with a sample to cast from, or at least a better idea of what the part does(the seat part).

Will