Posted March 12, 200520 yr comment_116473 Hello, I am a new owner to a 3/74 260Z and I purchased the car on eBay from Tuscon and had it shipped to me, sight unseen. I recieved the car and on the way home it dies a couple of times. Checked for spark and no spark. :disappoin It seemed as if the coil was getting hot - replaced coil. Continues to run for a few minutes and then continues to die........ same symtoms as before. The car will restart after a few minutes of sitting. Then you can drive it a couple of more miles and it dies again. Check for spark and no spark. I located the ignition module and it obvious it's been replaced (plug cut of and module hardwired into the harness. I am pretty much at a loss right now and would appreciate any help from you'll. Is there anyway to check the ignition module? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Jon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 14, 200520 yr comment_116655 Welcome to the club! Where in TX are you located? Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-116655 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 14, 200520 yr comment_116699 Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again.Hope that helps...PM me if I can help further...KCDCKeith Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-116699 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 16, 200520 yr Author comment_117110 Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again. Hope that helps... PM me if I can help further... KCDC Keith Hm, when the switches would go bad on my 510 they would just quit completely............. I guess it makes sense to me now! :stupid: Thanks for the help! :classic: Jon Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117110 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 16, 200520 yr Author comment_117111 Welcome to the club! Where in TX are you located?Thanks, I am glad to be here! BTW, I am located in Corpus Christi....I did attend your Z get together in Round Rock last May (I was hoping to win the giveaway Z!!!)Anyway, if you care to attend a fun get together we are having our SR20 Convention April 1-3...... We are rented Texas World Speedway for lapping sessions and then the BBQ and Car Show is SUnday in Austin...... follow the linky for details!http://www.sr20forum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=65It would be nice to see a few Z's in attendence also! They do welcome any Datsun/Nissan product. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117111 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 17, 200520 yr comment_117136 Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.It's known for cutting out once it warms up. If you are having the same problem I had, you'll be running along find it the entire car cuts off like a light switch. Then the car cools down and it will start again.Hope that helps...PM me if I can help further...KCDCKeithALL I HAVE TO SAY IS, WE NEED MORE COW BELL!!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117136 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 17, 200520 yr comment_117152 Through much searching on a couple of forums, I learned that on the back of the ignition switch you'll find two very small phillip head screws (have to take steering colum cover off first). Un-screw those two phillip heads & un-plug the wire connector and you'll find what Nissian calls the "Ignition Switch"; but it's not the "whole" switch, it mounts behind where the key goes into the tumbler's. I got the part from www.courtesyparts.com (David House is the Z Expert there). I think the part cost me $20ish.Keith:Actually it IS the "whole" Ignition "Switch". what it is connected to, is the Ignition "Lock" (the tumblers, that you mentioned) This part (the electrical switch for the ignition system) can also be purchased from some local auto parts stores. I believe that AutoZone and Poop Boys have been mentioned as sources. IIRC, prices were slightly cheaper than $20 (though not by much). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117152 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 17, 200520 yr Author comment_117169 Keith:Actually it IS the "whole" Ignition "Switch". what it is connected to, is the Ignition "Lock" (the tumblers, that you mentioned) This part (the electrical switch for the ignition system) can also be purchased from some local auto parts stores. I believe that AutoZone and Poop Boys have been mentioned as sources. IIRC, prices were slightly cheaper than $20 (though not by much). Which one do you recommend that I purchase? Thanks for all of you'lls help..... you gotta love the forums. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117169 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 18, 200520 yr Author comment_117338 Well,I replaced the ignition coil last night along with the ignition switch. The car still dies after idleing for a few minutes. The guy had installed an electric fuel pump on the car before I got the car.... I am thinking too much fuel pressure? I did a search earlier and it seems as if the SU's only want about 4 PSI of fuel pressure?I do have some good news though, I replaced my headlight switch and got them working fine and replaced the headlights with Silverstars! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117338 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 18, 200520 yr comment_117368 When it dies, check for spark by removing the coil wire from the middle of the distributor cap and holding it about 1/4" away from a grounded metal surface. If you get spark while it is cranking, then concentrate on the fuel system.Do a fuel capacity test as outlined in the FSM. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117368 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 18, 200520 yr comment_117371 Hi Tex. Dude, Depending on the electric fuel pump the PO put in? you may need to see if there is a fuel pressure regulator in line to knock down the pressure? above say 4 to 5 psi is too high, depending on the size of the fuel lines? If you are around 3.5 to 4 psi the Su fuel bowl float valves should be able to control the pressure and not over fill the fuel bowls. You may need to check the float level and adjust according, and or the 2 SUs need to be sycronized and fuel adjusted too? Fuel level in the side fuel bowls are rather critical to getting a SU to tune right. You basically need the fuel level in the bowl set right, then the needle jet adjusting nut under the carb is the final fine tuning of the fuel. So, yes you may need some carb. adjustments but I don't think that is your problem. Bad carb setup may be adding or compounding the problem. If you feel you want to twist on the carbs, check out some of the threads regarding SU tuning, there should be lots here to read from. Craig Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117371 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 18, 200520 yr comment_117376 ALL I HAVE TO SAY IS, WE NEED MORE COW BELL!!!Not to steal then thread but, I take it you saw Will Ferrell on SNL whenhe did that skit. I play drums/ percussion & thought that was funny as Shell.What do you call a person that hangs around with muscians?A Drummer...KCDCKeithKarl - thanks for the clarification...always learning... Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15281-car-dies/#findComment-117376 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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