It's funny how the so called tools are all so different. The fact is you just need something that will wedge in tight enough to keep the tensioner from popping out. I'm a little skeptical of the hose idea but I've even seen a big screwdriver used - on the ZTherapy video. I really don't think the dimensions and/or angles are critical; just jam it in good.

I agee. One thing that I think is beneficial is that there be a slight taper so that it's slightly narrower at the bottom and widens out higher up so that it "wedges" the tensioner tightly.

Doesnt even need to jam the tensioner (ie touch it), as long as it traps the chain on either side of the guides the tensioner will not pop out as the chain cannot move

Doesnt even need to jam the tensioner (ie touch it), as long as it traps the chain on either side of the guides the tensioner will not pop out as the chain cannot move

Well of course it doesn't touch the tensioner. It presses on the chain which in turn touches the tensioner. The fact remains that the purpose of the tool is to retain the tensioner.

Quick Adivce:

On the Z-therapy video, he uses a screw driver placed in there upside down, using the handle to hold tension.

Speaking from experience, I do not recommend this, in the event that you decide to remove the screwdriver after placing the cam sproket back on and the handle stays wedged and the rest of the screwdriver comes out, this IS a HORRIBLE EXPERIENCE.

Trust me on this.

Bri

Well of course it doesn't touch the tensioner.

Considering there is considerable confusion around this area (someone thought the tool was for re tensioning the chain) I thought it worthwhile pointing out, because so far, non of the posts (including yours) had.

But if we are all so educated as to how to do this why is the thread 2 pages long and several differant drawings shown.

Some folks tried to clear up if the origninal poster really understood what he was talking about. He may have just said it funny, but you do use the block to secure the tensioner, if you are going to remove the cam sprocket to move from one index hole to another to in order to adjust for chain stretch (or advance cam timing for another reason).

Some things become obvious when a person delves into actually doing the job. We're answering a question about the tool, not giving a step by step How To lesson. He didin't ask for that

One drawing from a Nissan publication, one from a Racers book, one from an Internet Parts seller. The fact that there are several different designed tools that will work shouldn't be a surprise to anyone. It's a common tool for working on OHC engines, some are more elaborate than others.

I kept it simple, cut a piece of wood, sanded it a bit so nothing would come off the wood getting into the oil, drilled a hole about an inch or so down from the top of "tool" and looped some wire so I could remove the tool after the sporket was back on.

Not to attractive, but has always done the job and was REAL cheap...

So this would qualify and the not-so-elaborate, but oh-so-effective.

If you want the measurements lemme know.

b

To all of those who answered,

Thanks guys for all of your thoughts and replys and pics! It is kind of funny though how there are several ways people have made those wedges different to do the same job. I guess from what I have seen here, is that the point is to make sure that the chain tensioner does not move or then the so called "fun" will begin. I just hope that I get it in there tight enough that it doesn't. Thanks again!

Larry

The only dimension that really matters is the width where the tensioner will be wedged. Lots of room for design license everywhere else.