Posted March 19, 200520 yr comment_117437 Just wanted to clear up a few questions I had relating to proper coil operation.When the key is on "ON" but the engine not going, power should be going into the + of the coil. Should current flow between the + and - of the coil without the engine on? Should it flow between the + of the coil and the chassis ?When the Coil is firing the current between the + and - of the coil should be "pulsating" right? Thanks, just trying to sort out why my car has no spark (distributor and coil are fine). Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15358-clarification-on-coil-operation/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 19, 200520 yr comment_117511 san_maru_zed said: When the key is on "ON" but the engine not going, power should be going into the + of the coil. Should current flow between the + and - of the coil without the engine on? Should it flow between the + of the coil and the chassis ?Current will flow between + - if the points are closed. With the points open you should be able to measure 12V between + and chassie ground. If your condenser is shorted you will have no spark and will measure less than 12V from coil + to ground. san_maru_zed said: When the Coil is firing the current between the + and - of the coil should be "pulsating" right? Yes it will be but the period will be very short and probably can not be seen using a digital voltmeter, an analog meter would show it better.No spark if you have 12V to the coil (and haven't done anything like swap distributors) would be usually :Bad condenserbad/slipped pointsbad coil (usually they leak oil from the hi tension lead area when bad) Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15358-clarification-on-coil-operation/#findComment-117511 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 19, 200520 yr comment_117526 I think you'd be better off viewing the voltage with an oscilloscope. I have an ignition analyser with a scope on it that measures rpm, dwell, saturation, etc. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15358-clarification-on-coil-operation/#findComment-117526 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 20, 200520 yr Author comment_117559 Thanks LanceM. Turned out my problem was that I had a chassis earth at - coil (didnt realise I wasnt supposed to...).TomoHawk, that sounds like it would be a very nice setup, a little more sophisticated than my Pencil tester :nervous: Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15358-clarification-on-coil-operation/#findComment-117559 Share on other sites More sharing options...
March 20, 200520 yr comment_117568 You're right. Using the scope, you can see when the points open & close, so you can tell if the points are bad, and other stuff. I should hook it up to the electronic dizzy on the Z, and read up on what the line should look like. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/15358-clarification-on-coil-operation/#findComment-117568 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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