Thinking of installing an 81-83 5 speed

[jmortensen]

Fair enough. My 5/70 had a Type A to start. I think the same fork is in the car now, but to be honest there were so many parts going around at that time and it was so long ago that I could be wrong, but I think I would remember if it needed to be changed out.

[dogma420]

I actually tried at first to use the adjustable slave (with the nut) from my original 10/71 1972 240z with my 77 5 speed...the mount point to the end of the rod are different lengths, so I couldn't get it to fit.

the later 280z slave w/out adjustment is self adjusting like Montoya said--but that brings up a good quesiton--is it self adjusting for a stock pressured clutch? I would think yes, which is fine with me, as I'm closer to stock than modified.

When it comes time to rebuild my 77 5 speed I will probably upgrade to the ZX 5 speed--sounds like the ratios from 2 to 3 work great--(plus 5th and reverse aren't kissing cousins like on the Z 5 speed)...

[montoya_fan01]

dogma, it is self adjusting, period. (of course for the stock clutch and probably at least until you've changed things so much that the rod from the slave can't push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch)

I haven't heard of anyone who reported having a problem in that regard, but that doesn't mean it hasn't/can't happen. If you stick with using ALL PARTS from the same year (p/p, disc, fork, t/o brg collar, slave) you will virtually eliminate the possiblity of a problem, start mixing things up and anything is possible.

[jmortensen]

dogma, it is self adjusting, period. (of course for the stock clutch and probably at least until you've changed things so much that the rod from the slave can't push the fork far enough to disengage the clutch)

That's a bit of an oversimplification. If you have the "self adjusting" unit, you're stuck with wherever that engagement happens to be. I guess you could adjust in a whole bunch of free play or really drastically change the pedal height. If that is good enough for you then more power to ya. How many cars have you jumped in the first time and been less than happy with where the clutch engages? For me that's most of the time. By using the manual adjuster, you can change the point of engagement to suit your preference. Is that worthwhile? Depends on who you are. For me, I think it's very worthwhile.

[montoya_fan01]

The adjustment at the slave sets the amount of gap between the p/p-disc and the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged. That is one place to adjust point of engagement, but IMO it's not the right place to do it. (you of course are welcome to do it in whatever manner floats your boat)

The only other place to make an adjustment IS at the master cylinder/pedal interface. I always set the slave adjustment (my early 72) per factory spec. so that there is positive disengagement but not an excessive gap, and then adjust the pedal height so that the clutch engages when the pedal is about 1" above the floor which is where I like it to be. This method works equally well for a 73 with the "self-adjusting" slave/fork. (I've owned one and used this method)

[Zs-ondabrain]

I JUST (last night) installed a 79' 280ZX 5-speed tranni into my 70'Z.

I used my original clutch, pressure plate, T.O. bearing collar and resurfaced flywheel. I also used the original fork (with hole for adjustable push rod) and a new T.O.Bearing.

I have an R-200 Diff w/ ZX C.V.axles so I used my original drive line.

Every thing bolts right up and works great. No adaptors or special parts.

The tranni was $250. The Diff is a posi locker out of a 300ZX. The cross member was from my 70, The diff mount is from an 82' ZX.

LOVIN IT! especially with gas prices being what they are right now.

Dave.

[jmortensen]

The adjustment at the slave sets the amount of gap between the p/p-disc and the flywheel when the clutch is disengaged. That is one place to adjust point of engagement, but IMO it's not the right place to do it. (you of course are welcome to do it in whatever manner floats your boat)

The only other place to make an adjustment IS at the master cylinder/pedal interface. I always set the slave adjustment (my early 72) per factory spec. so that there is positive disengagement but not an excessive gap, and then adjust the pedal height so that the clutch engages when the pedal is about 1" above the floor which is where I like it to be. This method works equally well for a 73 with the "self-adjusting" slave/fork. (I've owned one and used this method)

Well I guess we have to agree to disagree. I like to have the brake and clutch pedal heights basically the same, and then be able to adjust the engagement of the clutch independently of the pedal height. It's just one more degree of tunability, and it's definitely not the "wrong" way to do it as you stated above.

[mlc240z]

hey wait a minute, Dave.

you do mechanicals, too!:classic:

what about the shifter hole?

did you have to do any cutting for clearance in 5th gear?

this swap is in my future plans ('A' to 'B' first) and since i've read about the clearance issue, i bought the nismo 'S' shaped shifter from Courtesy just in case

thanks,

[jmortensen]

I don't know about dave, but I cut the shifter right above the pivot then welded it back on so that it faced straight back, then bent it 90 degrees so that it came straight through the middle of the shifter hole. If you want to run the stock inner shift boot don't cut the metal.

[Zs-ondabrain]

hey wait a minute, Dave.

you do mechanicals, too!:classic:

what about the shifter hole?

did you have to do any cutting for clearance in 5th gear?

this swap is in my future plans ('A' to 'B' first) and since i've read about the clearance issue, i bought the nismo 'S' shaped shifter from Courtesy just in case

thanks,

I AM a Mechanic, not nearly as qualified or certified as JZM but still, a mechanic.

The shift hole was already cut for the previous tranni (72' 4-speed) after my original dropped a couple bearings out of the drain hole.

In a rounded shape, cut only 5/8" forward of the present hole. Your rubber boot should still catch most of the lip and be usable.

I am a mechanic, electrician, I do electronics and am a 12 volt specialist with 18 years under my belt. I also do construction and can practically build a house from the ground up if need be. I do minor bodywork, upholstery, electrical, mechanical, suspension and brakes, including rebuilding almost every part that has ever been pulled on my car.

Including the new gear reduction starter that I just rebuilt and put in my Z at the same time as the 5-speed install.

[mlc240z]

yea Jon,

Thanks.

i was trying to avoid any cutting of the shifter tunnel with the purchase of the comp shifter (i get a little queasy when the words 'cut the Z' are mentioned).

i had read that the comp shifter eliminated that necessity so hopefully i won't have to. just curious since Dave didn't mention it.

[mlc240z]

you don't have to convince me, Dave!

i've seen your work and i knew that only a real 'technician' could do it that well!!

the comp shifter brings the top of the shifter back a couple of inches and the initial incline should allow it to clear the tunnel without cutting. this is strictly by eyeball, and seems to be confirmed by other postings. i hope, i hope.