Hey all,

My car while drive it at highway speed started hesitating while the amp meter and tach started fluctuating (It did this a couple weeks ago on the highway but didn't do it again until today). While this was intermittent, it finally caused my car to stall. It cranked right back up, ran fine, and then did it again a minute later. Being close to my house, I pulled in and let it sit while I checked connections. After about ten minutes it started right up and idled fine. I then turned on my lights and hazards and it died again. It did not want to fire immediately after that. I checked the battery and it wasn't drained at all(12.8). The alternator is recieving correct voltage and I took the alternator in and it tested ok. Also, all of the connections appear(I know) to be in good shape.

What I'm wondering if this could be a symptom of the voltage regulator. I did a lot of searching and now understand the function(Ithink). It seems though that everyone else was having a draining of the battery issues...if the VR was acting up, I think it could cause this?

Anyone had any similiar circumstances? I was thinking of doing the ZX upgrade anyhow and this might be the best time.

It became dark while all of this was happening and am going to try to adjust and clean up the VR in the morning.

I did the ZX distributor upgrade and also put in a new coil a couple months ago with no problems since.

Thanks! :rambo:

Do you have the normal 240Z points type distributor in the car?

No Mods (like adding the Crane XR700 Ignition for instance)?

I did away with the points system and put in an electronic ignition out of a ZX.

OK. I was mentioning the Crane system because I had major problems like you are describing, with the Crane XR700 in my car being the cause. It would DIE on the freeway, in intersections, everywhere. Then it would start up again about10 minutes later. It was the Power transister in the Crane Ignition module.

Maybe it's my module too? Will is letting me test a working VR...so we'll see.

Thanks for your thoughts

I vary much doubt that it is the regulator. I do question the module though. Have you recently washed down the engine by chance ? I hav heard of the problem you are experiencing being caused by the module . I picked up a spair module at the bone yard for just this reason. Gary

I'm thinking your right beandip. It does resemble the problems I was having before that made me switch to the new dist. The engine hasn't been wet that I'm aware...out of the ordinary at least. I wonder if it's getting too much heat since the module is facing the engine and is just protected by plastic casing?

Thanks

I suffered those exact same symptoms in my '75 240K(almost identical electrically and mechanically to the 240Z).No pattern to it, and could find no fault. It had me stuffed for quite a while 'till I discovered quite by accident what seemed to be the cause......the ignition lock! the turning action of the key from OFF to ON to START, once fired up then springs back to ON. This action was a little sticky, and I think it was just the weight of a few extra keys on the keyring with the ignition key was enough to let it swing towards the OFF position while driving. It is only a tiny movement of the key in the ignition finding a dead spot (no ignition +12V). I wasn't convinced at first but gave the ignition lock a few shots of locksmiths graphite powder (straight in where the key goes) to free up the action and have not had the fault since.

Hope it works for you too Jonathan.

Cheers,

Jim.

it wouldnt be the regulator . i work for a company that rebuilds alternators , starters, etc. i would defiantely check the modual . when moduals start to fail they do what you are explaining .

Thanks for the advice.

I swapped in another distributor and the problem still persisted.

Jim - I swapped out the ignition module(?) and the problem hasn't shown itself since. Because the problem is intermittent, i'm going to have to give it time to see if it occurs again.

Everyone have a great weekend!

---Jonathan