Before everyone jumps and screams at me to use the search, I did. I couldn't find anything on this specific problem.

I know that the spindle pin in the rear control arms is a lot of guys worst enemy on these cars so hopefully some of you could help me out. My problem is that I cannot get the bolt in the center of the pin to come out. Is this a stud? bolt? widget? I tried double nutting it only to snap it off about 1/8" above the spindle pin itself. Looking at the fiche, it looks to me like its pressed in from the top. Would I have any luck grinding/drilling the remaining portion of it and then pressing the pin out?

On a side thought, can someone explain the correct method of removing the wheel bearings? I have the flange that bolts to the axle off already but am unsure of which direction needs to be pressed to get them out.

Thanks

My problem is that I cannot get the bolt in the center of the pin to come out. Is this a stud? bolt? widget? I tried double nutting it only to snap it off about 1/8" above the spindle pin itself. Looking at the fiche, it looks to me like its pressed in from the top. Would I have any luck grinding/drilling the remaining portion of it and then pressing the pin out?

On my cars I just unscrewed the nut til the bottom of the thread (to protect the thread from impact), applied a bit of oil and knocked the locking bolt upward which should knock it loose. Then the bolt was undone and the bolt pushed out by hand. The bolt itself is not round, it has a flat locating edge which stops both it and the spindle pin from spinning.

THANK YOU

that helps me out so much. i am going to try to make a jig to hold the assembly to pound it out. who am i kidding? it only sounds that easy

I'd get a drift pin (Long skinny one) and drive it out the rest of the way from the bottom after you soak it really good with some penetrating fluid (I.E. - PB Blaster, WD 40, Seafoam - Deep Creep or your own personal choice. Hope you have a new pin/washer/nut to go back in there and maybe the spindle pins also? (I see them on eBay from time to time as well as the locking pin) Have attached a picture that shows the locking pin sticking out for reference. In regards to the rear bearing R/R see the following website: http://www.atlanticz.ca for a "How To". It's in the "Tech Section". It's pretty large so I hope you have a cable modem in case you want to get it for future reference.

webdawg1

I'd get a drift pin (Long skinny one) and drive it out the rest of the way from the bottom after you soak it really good with some penetrating fluid

BINGO!!!!!!

PS: Regarding the Wheel Bearing tech page. SAVE IT to your own computer so you don't have to wait for it to load next time you want to view it.

hehe, thats one of my old cars in that photo...I have seen it spring up all over the web.

Having that picture really helps. It looks like i should be able to put the strut in the car and place a jack or something similar to press up to get it out.

Thanks for the link also.

You'd be better off with a pin punch and a BFH, than mucking about with a jack.

Step 1. WHACK

Step 2. NONE, (you're DONE)

Sometimes you get to use that two pound hammer!!!!

Sometimes you get to use that two pound hammer!!!!

you dont have to tell me twice! im gonna head out to the garage and give that darn thing all i got... :devious:

With the wheel bearings, you have to pull the stub axle out. I used a slide hammer bolted onto the wheel studs to yank it. It didn't want to come easily. After that, I took it to the local diff shop. Took him 2 minutes (literally) to take off the old bearing and press on the new one. Best $5 I spent.

I found a really good picture that shows the "Locking bolt" in a "Rusted" vs. "New" condition. I guess you can see why it's such a PITA to get out because of all the rust. Might help somebody out down the road as you have to line up the flat space on the locking bolt with the spindle pin cutout during reassembly.

webdawg1