The rear brake/axle assembly is one of the few assemblies I haven't torn down on any of my Zeds. I've been dreading it, but the time has come to get the job done.

I've removed the retaining nut and easily pulled off the companion flange (I think that's the right term--the part with four bolts that attaches to the half-shaft).

Now it's time to drive out the stub axle. I soaked it overnight with PB Blaster. The Humble "How to Restore your Z Car" book says to prop the drum brake backing plate on two 2-by-4's, use a soft drift and give it a few good licks. But this puppy isn't budging. Am I missing something, like a retaining clip somewhere, or am I going to have to resort to the torch to get this out?

Here's what she looks like. I've removed the oil seal. Although the second picture is out of focus, you can see that there is an orange/brown substance coating the splines of the companion flange, presumably rust.

<img src="http://www.davesweb.com/Houndawg/images/P1030393_320x240.jpg" width="320" height="240"><br>

<img src="http://www.davesweb.com/Houndawg/images/P1030394_320x240.jpg" width="320" height="240">

I really don't want to pound on this and destroy it. But at this point it's not going anywhere. Any suggestions welcome.

D

SuperDave,

I recently changed the rear wheel bearings in my Z and it was a real pain removing the stub axle.

The way I managed to get it off was to put the retaining nut back on the stub axle (screwed on so that the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stub axle thread); I then put a socket over the nut and hit the socket with a hammer. It took a fair few blows to get the stub axle loose but it didn't damage any of the components.

If you have access to a press, that would make life easy.

Hope you manage to get them out!

Marc.

If you have access to a press, that would make life easy.

I think I'm going to just take them to the machine shop and have them press out the bearing while they're there.

I had put a block of wood against the stub axle and hit it pretty hard. I wonder if the wood softened too much of the blow? I'm just afraid to hit it too hard too many times.

SuperDave,

I recently changed the rear wheel bearings in my Z and it was a real pain removing the stub axle.

The way I managed to get it off was to put the retaining nut back on the stub axle (screwed on so that the top of the nut is flush with the top of the stub axle thread); I then put a socket over the nut and hit the socket with a hammer. It took a fair few blows to get the stub axle loose but it didn't damage any of the components.

If you have access to a press, that would make life easy.

Hope you manage to get them out!

Marc.

My Mad Z hit the nail on the head. I just did mine not too long ago and had access to a press. That is by far the easiest and best way to do it. And I might also add...it is the best way to put it all back together!!!

You might check out the following web site as it has several very good "How To's" regarding the front/rear drive train. (http://www.atlanticz.ca) It's in the "Tech" section under wheels. Has quite a few pictures...etc...etc. It's pretty big so you may want to save it to your hard drive for future reference.

webdawg1

You might check out the following web site as it has several very good "How To's" regarding the front/rear drive train. (http://www.atlanticz.ca) It's in the "Tech" section under wheels. Has quite a few pictures...etc...etc. It's pretty big so you may want to save it to your hard drive for future reference.

webdawg1

Yes, I've seen some of his "How To's" and found them informative, entertaining, and...real. He makes mistakes every now and then, but documents them, too, and I find that very refreshing. If you can resist the urge to laugh at his goofs, you realize that you are no different. I think it takes a self-assured person to document their failures as well as their triumphs.

This is where a 1 inch brass drift comes in handy. You can place one end on the stub and beat the devil out of the other end with a 2 pound hammer. No fear of damage to the stub and the axle will come out.

If you have access to a press, that would make life easy.

I'm thinking about just getting my own press, since I've got other things to press off and on (wheel bearings, races, piston pins). How big a press do you think I would need for the stub axle job (since it seems like the toughtest one so far)? I see a 12-ton press on sale for $99 at Northern Tool and equipment. Would that be big enough? I'm pretty sure it would be sufficient for the bearings and maybe the piston pins.

SuperDave...

I am wondering that myself because I know that I will have to do the job again down the road and I might not have access to a press next time I do it so I will be keeping watch to see what is recommended.

When I had my Outer Spindle Pins removed from the Lower A-Arms of my 240Z, the machine shop needed to use their 30-ton press (and a torch) to remove them. IMO, a 20-ton press would be sufficient for almost all needs, but a 12-ton would probably not be sufficient. Better to have too much capability than not enough, especially if the purpose of buying a press is to save money and time working on your various projects. If you buy the right tool the first time, it should last a lifetime and cover all of your needs.

JMO

When I had my Outer Spindle Pins removed from the Lower A-Arms of my 240Z, the machine shop needed to use their 30-ton press (and a torch) to remove them. IMO, a 20-ton press would be sufficient for almost all needs, but a 12-ton would probably not be sufficient.

Thanks. That's the kind of info I wanted. My purchase remains on hold.

I finally got my stub axles removed. I took them to my Uncle's shop where he has an old homemade shop press. The thing is really strong--they work on bulldozers, skidders, and earth movers--really big stuff. So I don't know how many tons this thing would be rated for--I'd guess 20 tons or more. He's 77 and doesn't do much these days, so he didn't have a decent jack and I had to rig up my own floor jack rated at 6 tons to use with it.

Using this press and this jack, the axles pressed out EASY! The first came out almost as soon as the jack put any pressure at all on it. The other was a little more stubborn, but the first pull I made using a cheater bar on the jack popped it right out.

Based on this experience, I'd advise against hammering on these things. Banging and banging, even when applying heat, just doesn't apply the right kind of pressure that will get these stub axles out. A shop press is definitely the way to go.