A while back there was some interest in me posting some pictures of my rear sway bar, made by Suspension Techniques.

It is a bolt on, no holes were drilled in chassis.

Please click on my link below in my signature to see what the sway bar looks like on my 72 240z.

I highly recommend this upgrade, the car is much tighter in corners now. The front sway bar was also upgraded (and there's a photo of it as well.)

Obviously you have a new part that the rearward part of the sway bar bolts to that replaces the rear frame-to-control arm mount (see images).

<img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0284.JPG" width="300" height="225">

<img src="http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/data/500/medium/IMG_0286.JPG" width="300" height="225">

That came from Suspension Techniques? Also, do you know if the layout of the rear sway bar is pretty much like that of the 260/280 rear sway bar, but just flipped around backwards? Or are its dimensions significantly different? The reason I ask is that I have a suspension techniques kit I bought on eBay but haven't tried to install (and figured I'd need some alteration to install the rear bar). It would be nice if all I need additionally are the rear frame-to-control arm mount pieces that you have.

SuperDave,

For I think it was $259.99 last summer (2004) I got a box that was sealed at the company Suspension Techniques...one big box for each sway bar. All hardware was included for each end...the 2 brackets that add the extra holes for the sway bar came with the sway bar. Everything came with the bars. Very nice install kit, it even came with extra bolts. Also Instructions if needed.

I am not familiar with any of the US S30s that came with factory rear sway bars, so I can't help you there. I would think that this bar is completely different than anything that was stock on a 260/280 zed, especially if the middle mounts are in front of the diff.

The worse part of the whole process was that my backing plate was leaking, so I decided to tackle that at the same time...the mustache bar leaves something to be desired when taking it off!

Hope this helps,

<snip> The worse part of the whole process was that my backing plate was leaking, so I decided to tackle that at the same time...the mustache bar leaves something to be desired when taking it off!

Are you referring to difficulty getting the moustache bar disconnected from the studs on the Diff cover?

Carl,

No, I had no trouble removing the nuts on the 2 studs that are on the backing plate....

It was actually easy to get off, cause i left it attached to the backing plate and took out all the backing plate bolts and just slid it off...

Putting it back on was tricky, because I separated the mustache bar from the back plate and sealed the diff back up (with the must bar still removed)...you have to kind of jimmy it back in...but I got it back in...nice leak free R180 now...used new MSA gasket and gasket sealer on both sides of gasket (very little)....first time I replaced the fluid myself....I am proud! Heh...

Superdave the dimensions are completely different for a bar that mounts in the stock rear location on a 260/280 vs 240. I have a set of AZ Z front and rear adjustable swaybars for a 260 /280 that I will sell cheap if your interested.

IMO, Suspension Techniques makes the best engineered ready made kit for the 240Z. I have their competition kit (1 1/8" front, 7/8" adjustable rear) and really like it.

Superdave the dimensions are completely different for a bar that mounts in the stock rear location on a 260/280 vs 240...

I'm many months away from installing the rear sway bar. Right now it's stashed up in the rafters of the garage. At some point I'll pull it down, actually look at the instructions :stupid: and see what I've got and what I'll need.

Curtis,

I almost agree with you...ST makes the most common solution, and it is very good. Saner and DP Racing make the best solution. DP makes an adjustable tubular front and solid adjustable rear bar that is the "Best" that I am aware of.

Ron

"Carl,

No, I had no trouble removing the nuts on the 2 studs that are on the diff cover...."

Your not the only one,

Friday night at midnight- Damn those things are tight! Cindy handed me the torch and after about lighting my britches on fire under the car!...I warmed the nuts up and they came right off. The new diff had bolts instead of the stud & nuts, much easier.

Anyways I wouldn't advise the flame under the car thing, you're only asking for trouble, but it was getting late!

Craig

Curtis,

I almost agree with you...ST makes the most common solution, and it is very good. Saner and DP Racing make the best solution. DP makes an adjustable tubular front and solid adjustable rear bar that is the "Best" that I am aware of.

Ron

Ron,

Is there info somewhere on DP tubular bar? I have DP coil-overs and am very pleased with them.

Aloha,

Curtis

Hi Curtis,

Did you look on their website? www.designproductsracing.com? I have their bars on my car front and rear along with their modified front and rear suspension componants.

Ron