Fuel Tank Removal "How To"

[webdawg1]

Made up a generic "How To" on doing a fuel tank removal. Should be generic enough to fit just about all model years with minor differences.

webdawg1

Fuel Tank Removal.doc

[argniest]

could a noob do this job, or am I asking for BIG trouble. I mean while I have learned some things about my 1978 z car, this would be by far the biggest thing I have ever done to a car, much less my z car. However, I have been out there crawling around and looking at how the gas tank is installed, and all hoses on it, the brackets that hold it in place, the fuel pump connections, the fuel sending unit under the back floor panel, etc. And it does seem doable, as long as I remeber where everything goes back together...and I am very careful with everything.

If you read my exploits on this forum lately, you will see that I just found an incredible amount of debris in my fuel filter that I took off last summertime (and I am also going to remove the current fuel filter, and I believe I will find the same amount of gunk in it). We have suspected a possible fuel tank corrosion problem, and now we have big time proof because of that fuel filter plugged up.

So all that debirs makes me believe I have major corrosion problems in the gas tank. And so, it would be nice if I could just drain the tank, and remove it myself and bring it to my relative who has done the fuel tank cleaning many times before (he restores cars for a living for 25+ years). He is an hour away, and also if I jsut bring the tank, then my car wont have to sit outside. It could take him a few weeks at least to get around to it. He has a lot full of bmws, jags, mercedes that he is always working on. And I know in working with him on the datsun in 2009 and 2010 on all the mechanical stuff, it can be a lower priority for him. So I could avoid leaving my car sit outside for a minute, if I could just remove it myself. And thats a big IF!

Edited February 1, 2011 by argniest

[FastWoman]

Well, you'll need a friend to help you. It takes one person up top to route the filler neck, hoses, whatever, while another person lowers the tank from the bottom. You might be able to do the removal yourself, but you don't want to get stuck under a bulky tank. It's good to have someone else there, just in case.

For the replacement, you'll definitely need someone else to route the filler neck, hoses, etc., and to hand you stuff.

Is it difficult for a noob? Probably not. It's just dirty. Cozye cautioned somewhere that the passenger-side (?) strap bolt tends to rust and break, but mine moved pretty easily. My tank was also in very good condition, so maybe it was replaced somewhere along the way. Spray the bolts with your Kroil, and you should be good. Try your bolts first. If they don't move for you, then seek the help of your relative.

[argniest]

Thanks for advice. I am also reading the thread with 51 pictures about using POR 15 I think it was, on refurbing the fuel tank. Im actually going to turn that thread into a mini how to, and print it off with all the pictures large sized so I can see them. It was great information. Although I think it was for a 1971, and I have a 1978. So I am sure things will be different. But it will teach me alot about what needs to be done, even if its not me doing the cleaning of the tank. And yup, I will have some help on hand when I goto do that fuel tank dropping process. I think I still have one more thread to read about removing tank.

[Darrel]

sure you can do it. I did it myself, but I used a floor jack as an extra hand holding up the tank.

[argniest]

Well, I am sure I *CAN* do it, but can I do it right without causing untold damage. This baby is 33 years old and I have never done anything this serious to a car before. But I am willing to do it, and learn from it.

At least after reading over lots of posts on this forum, reading the manual about this procedure (im still reviewing the POR 15 thread which has 51 pictures I think), and inspecting the car itself. It really does seem doable for a noob like me. I just have to be very careful about it, and make sure I know exactly where everything plugs back into. And be patient. I am sure that sucker is gonna be full of major goop, after seeing the fuel filter results. All that stuff is in the filter for a reason ya know...

And I suppose I may need to replaces some of those hoses back there too related to the fuel tank. I wont know until I see all of them and can inspect them closely. And then I will have to figure out where to get good quality replacements. I dont know about that yet...

Man it will be nice to have a clean tank someday....hopefully I can get this done in February and have it back on before end of the month. If things go well that is. I am almost sure that all that crud in the tank and filter, is contributing to my car not running as good as it can be.

Edited February 1, 2011 by argniest

[spitz17]

SUPER dirty, but I did it myself. Just remember to wear a mask of some sort and goggles. You can use a piece of wood and a jack to help bring down the fuel tank.

[Decoy12]

Argniest, I am a noob, and if we could do it, so can you ! Like said before its good to have a friend and a floor jack. Its much, much easier remove than to put back. You said you might want to replace hoses, but be sure to remove the ones you have carefully, because if they are original, they are old and might tear. Thats more $$ you wouldn't need to spend. If where you live, older cars are prone to rust, be sure to spray penetrating lubricant where the strap bolts are. My 240 sat for 7 years with old gas and try as i might, couldnt clean it myself and left it to the "pros" to clean it. Good luck with your tank!

[FastWoman]

Michael, I wouldn't re-use any of the hoses, with the exception of the filler neck. That seems to be made of something like nitrile rubber and was in like-new condition on my car. But the hoses were all pretty tired. The problem with old hoses is that they oxidize and slough off a sooty debris that deposits itself throughout the fuel system. While the tank is down, you may as well start with everything being fresh.

[kenz240z]

I've removed & cleaned a couple of 240Z fuel tanks by myself. Nothing wrong with an extra set of hands, except the beer disappears twice as fast. Be sure to drain the tank first, if there is any gas left in it. I have a pressure washer and I stuck the wand inside and sprayed out the tank real good. Then put a little muriatic acid in and sloshed it around (carefully...wear gloves and goggles!). Rinsed with a bit of baking soda to neutralize the acid and the inside was then nice and clean. Amazing, the amount of crud that washes out, even from a tank that doesn't look that bad.

You can have it boiled out, do the liner bit (POR or one of the others available), but I opted not to do that. With no leaks and no rust I figure the tank will be good for another 30+ years!

[Decoy12]

Michael, I wouldn't re-use any of the hoses, with the exception of the filler neck... The problem with old hoses is that they oxidize and slough off a sooty debris that deposits itself throughout the fuel system. While the tank is down, you may as well start with everything being fresh.

Hey Sarah, thanks for clearing that up, I shouldn't be giving bad advice like that! But I did say I was a noob (excuses, excuses... I know ) The reason I dropped my tank was not only to clean it, because it was clogging my filter with crud, but also because I took her out one day to fill 'er up, and after 6 gallons, gas started to pour out behind the wheel well! So I replaced that hose (one to the expansion tank, that was ductaped..) and the one on the far right, that my friend cut up. But you are right, I should have just waited and saved up for a new set of hoses.

[cozye]

I pulled the tank by myself, put it in by myself too. The tank is very light empty, maybe 20lbs or so. empty it first If you loosen the straps enough to allow the filler side to drop, you can get the hoses etc.. off before completely dropping the tank.

The worst thing that can happen during tank removal is you tear an old hose or break a strap bolt. Either one is no biggie. Another thing to be careful on the strap bolts is that they are "j" bolts, with an eyelet that slides into a slot on a "frame" rail in the unibody. The frame rail is only 16ga sheet metal, and if you crank on a frozen bolt hard enough you could bend out the slot in the frame rail. I suggest if working with a frozen bolt to use a pair of vice grips on the top to help hold it while working with it and not put extra stress in the mounting slot.

The J-bolts are no longer available, so if you break one you either have to fabricate something, or find a used one. I made a new one by using the top part of the "j" welded to a new bolt with the head cut off and used new nuts.

Edited February 2, 2011 by cozye