1978 280zx - what is a good deal?

[cvp911t]

Hey guys-

Very new to the forum...seen a lot of good info here. I'm trying to decide how much to pay for a Z I found - it's a 1978 280ZX, 114k miles. Body/interior are in mint condition. Engine has been either rebuilt or replaced, and has 10k miles on it. Clean title.

Now, I haven't gone to look at the car yet for myself...a friend found it for me. It seems the pre-1974 cars are more desirable for weight/handling reasons. But considering all, what would be a really good deal on this car?

What are the main things to look for (big ticket repairs, things that tend to go out, etc.)? Links to buyers guides are fine...no need to reinvent the wheel. But it would be nice to make sure I get a good deal if I decide to buy.

Let me know, and thanks for the help! Feel free to email at cvp911t@hotmail.com.

Lance

[MikeW]

If it's a 1978 it's a 280Z. The 280ZX was introduced for the 1979 model year. Do you have pictures? People around here are more likely to be able to help if it really is a 280Z and not a 280ZX.

[Bambikiller240]

What are the main things to look for (big ticket repairs, things that tend to go out, etc.)? Links to buyers guides are fine...no need to reinvent the wheel. But it would be nice to make sure I get a good deal if I decide to buy.

R U S T ! ! ! ! The #1 Mortal Enemy of Z's

[Marty Rogan]

Lance,

Check here: http://zhome.com/

There are some good tips on what to look out for under "Buying a Z Car".

I really don't know much about the price ranges for a 280Z. As they say pictures are worth a thousand words. A test drive is even better!

Marty

[cvp911t]

Thanks for the replies, and for the link....

It turns out that it's a 1976 280 (is that a Z or a ZX)? I had a mechanic friend look at it - he said there was a rust spot right under the cowl, and another spot where the paint was bubbling a little.

They say that they have all receipts, etc....but I haven't gotten a chance to look at it. However, if I do go see it, I want to have money in hand to just bring the car home.

And is the difference in Z or ZX in nomenclature only?...or are there fundamental differences? Is the 76 a more desirable 280 than the 78?...and how much should I take with me?

Thanks again,

Lance

[ecp48]

The 280Z is a continuation of the first generation Z (the 240), the last version. The ZX was the next body style. The engine, transmission and differential of the ZX are basically the same as the '75 to 78 Z, i.e.: fuel injected, 2.8 litre, etc. The suspension and body are different.

I like the 280Z in that it looks like the original with the benefit of fuel injection and a designed in AC (rather than add on). A little heavier than the 240 and slightly higher due to revised bumper requirements. And bothe the 75/76 and 77/78 had the ugliest bumpers mounted on a Z. (I have both a 76 and a 78, both with the original bumpers removed.)

As to which is better, purely a matter of taste.

They both RUST

[cvp911t]

What would be considered a steal, deal, and too much, assuming:

-Has records

-Minimal rust

-New engine

-Mechanically sound

?

[mriz]

I would definitly go around the car with a magnet to check for filler which maybe sitting on top of rust. With the hatch up raise the rear carpet. If you look down inside and see and two white objects those are your sneakers(found this out with my 82zx). Check all electrical devices , probably "just a bulb out" can mean the difference in your child going to college or not. Look in the galleries to see common rust spots and what it takes to repair.

[Bambikiller240]

Paint bubbling is a warning sign. It means the panel is rusting from the inside (otherside) out. Before you state this car has minimal rust you should read up (use our search function "rust"; and at www.ZHome.com) about rust and what to look for when buying a Z.

There are several specific places to look carefully for signs of rust. FWIW, the rust you see is typically only the tip of the iceberg. Most rust will be hidden from view and will only be discovered durring restoration, or when parts start falling apart. Learn all that you can before you see the car and take your time, look CAREFULLY and THOROUGHLY before even considering to make an offer.

[chickenwafer]

I heavily agree with Carl on this one. Rust is like a bactria, it spreads and doesn't stop until you treat it. Usually, if you see some rust there is more lurking behind it. I like the magnet idea that Mriz suggested, it willl find filler (bondo). Filler isn't bad, but some people put it on over rust stops to conceal it, which doesn't do anything to stop the rust.

Try to get some pictures of the car if at all possible. Make sure you drive it, as well. There are things to listen for in Z cars that can cause problems such as a suspension clunk, driveline clunk, and other engine problems (although most we fixed with fuel injection).

FYI- Unless the car is in PRISTINE shape, and I mean MINT, flawless, perfecto (which it isn't because of the rust you mentioned eariler) the price should not be anywhere's over $10,000. Just use that a baseline. It should be well, well under 10K. But again, it all hinges on the condition. A newly restored mint 280Z could easily sell for over $18,000.

Dave

[sblake01]

Chickenwafer, I would agree with everything you say except for your assesment of the price. I don't think that 280's yet command that kind of price, and I own one that's about as rust-free as you'll find. Unless you're talking about a fully restored Zap or Black Pearl or one with documented super low mileage, I wouldn't expect the price to even approach 10k. More like 3-6k depending on condition IMO.

[mlc240z]

a lot also depends on location. here in the northeast, even a rusted Z can fetch $4-6K if you can find them at all. west coast has a larger supply so from what i've seen the cost can be a lot cheaper for the same condition car. you will turn more heads out here tho, since you rarely see them on the road.

cvp911t, post your location to get a more accurate price.