Ok, I've done the search and read the results. There are some interesting upgrades out there but none that I can find that keep and use the original holders and covers.

I also need to find out the amperage of the three fusible links in my car. I think they are 1 x 80 amp (black) and 2 x 30 amp (brown). I have attached a scan of the wiring diagram, but all this shows is them numbered as #1, #3 and #4.

I am currently making up some new spade connecters to either bolt or solder to the original spade connecters so that I can utilise modern cartridge type fusible links in lieu of the old style wire ones but keep the original holders and covers. I'll take pictures along the way if anyone is interested.

If anyone knows the correct amperages it would be a great help.

Thanks

Alan.

Fusible links.bmp

Three hours work to make and solder new connections and job is finished. Unless you remove the covers you would never know it has been modernised.

If you ever have a situation when the link melts, don't you think the soldering will melt too? I've had joints melt under high-amp conditions on d.c. motors.

thx

No I don't. If the harness ever gets hot enough to melt the soldered connections that will be the least of my problems won't it.

I agree, Alan. If the harness gets hot enough to melt solder you better start RUNNING because your car is on fire. I'm curious as to the advantage of the change over.

The advantage for me is the availability of the new style cartridge type.

$2.95 each, and available everywhere as opposed to the old wire type which are hard to find these days. I also have too much time on my hands I think.

<I also need to find out the amperage of the three fusible links in my car. I think they are 1 x 80 amp (black) and 2 x 30 amp (brown).>

Hey Alan. Did you find out what the amperages were? David

If the harness ever gets hot enough to melt the soldered connections that will be the least of my problems won't it.

It'sa not the wires that I would be most worried about. The wires get hot, but the joint gets REALLY HOT, and meltsthe solder. Because of the resistance, if not soldered well. I've had it happen on some r/c cars & boats. Those D.C. motors will draw up to 100 amps ( at 7 volts), so you gotta have perfect solder joints.

thx

Tomohawk,

I too have played with R.C. models when I was younger, and see your point about the D.C. motors in models. Here in the club we're playing with real cars with petrol engines that just isn't the same thing.

The way your talking there should be cars bursting into flames all over the place.

It's a fusible link, it's designed to blow before that happens. If i'm ever drawing 100 amps out of my 7 volt car battery i'll heed your warning.

Dave,

What i've worked out is the 2 Brown wires are 30 amp and the Black is 80 amps which seems high so i'm still trying to find out more about the Black wire.

Hi Allan,

Thats really neat, we used #8 fencing wire back in the good old days....

As to amperage, those links would have been about 45 amps, rated slightly under the alternator output.

I've never had one actually go, the PO on my 260 simply used copper wire rated at 100amp and connected to spade terminals. The 240 doesn't have them at all to worry about!

It's not exactly rocket science, however I've never suffered from any electrical problems so I've left well alone...

Does anyone know if the white covers are available as a spare?

MOM

Hi Mike,

Yeah I know what you mean about fencing wire. I thought 80 was a bit high and will probably knock it back to 50 just to be safe.

Yes the white covers are available as spares, you quite often see them on ebay. I got mine from Vic British when I got some other stuff, can't rememeber the price.

Alan.

Link covers are available from Courtesy, also. Nice upgrade!