Rear Suspenion Dissassembly Question

[NCLarry]

I'll attach a few pics to help explain. I'm in the process of seperating the rear lower control arms from the strut assembly. I'm having difficulty removing the long double-threaded (each end) rod identified as 'spindle - transverse link'. (Pic 1)

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1971%20Datsun%20240Z/ZHelp001.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=500 width =600>

Is this what I need the spindle-pin remover for? I thought that was for another part (not there yet??)

Also, on the front suspension the 'bolt - transverse link' that attaches the lower assembly to the main doesn't want to slide out. The bolts off, but it won't go. Already mushroom one nut when 'encouring' out. (Pic 2)

<img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v214/leichenb/1971%20Datsun%20240Z/ZHelp003.jpg" alt="Image hosted by Photobucket.com" height=500 width =600>

I'm thinking to use a press? Ideas?

[ChrisA]

I'll attach a few pics to help explain. I'm in the process of seperating the rear lower control arms from the strut assembly. I'm having difficulty removing the long double-threaded (each end) rod identified as 'spindle - transverse link'. (Pic 1)

Is this what I need the spindle-pin remover for? I thought that was for another part (not there yet??)

Also, on the front suspension the 'bolt - transverse link' that attaches the lower assembly to the main doesn't want to slide out. The bolts off, but it won't go. Already mushroom one nut when 'encouring' out. (Pic 2)

I'm thinking to use a press? Ideas?

Larry, there is a locating pin in roughly the center of the rear spindle pin(your first picture). It holds the pin in the control arm. Did you remove it first? You must remove it to get the long pin out. If you did, then you are fighting the same thing that most Z owners fight. The spindle pin is a pain to get out sometimes without mushrooming the ends. If you search the forum's you will find many references to removing it. I made a tool from some specs Beandip (Gary) gave me. It makes the job easy. If you thread the nut on about half way and hit it with the right sized drift in an air hammer you can get it to slide a little which might loosen it up to come out all the way.

On the front bolt, just hammer it out. You can get new bolts for that.

Much luck to you,

Chris

[NCLarry]

OK. so this IS the spindle pin then.. A friend has a spind pin remover (he made up) so I suppose its time to borrow it (at the cost of a few beers) or search the forum to make my own.

Sounds like the retaining bolt (circled in yellow) just gets hammered out once the nut is removed, yes?

[MikeW]

Sounds like the retaining bolt (circled in yellow) just gets hammered out once the nut is removed, yes?

Exactly. Without removing that nut and bolt the spindle pin removing tool will do you no good.

By the way, sometimes the spindle pin really does slide right out like the FSM leads you to believe. One of mine came right out easily. The other wouldn't even come out using a press. I ended up just getting a used assembly instead of fighting with it.

[jmanz6]

To remove the spindle pin bolt (1st pic), you should loosen the nut until it just covers the top of the bolt, then drive it with a hammer to loosen it. Remove the nut and drive it the rest of the way out. If you mushroom the bolt, it won't fit thru the hole. Good luck with the spindle pin.

[kinfish]

From the looks of your suspension components your Z has a severe case of Northern New Jersey rust probably aggravated by that wonderful corrosive, road salt. The rear spindle pins is the #1 hardest job on the Z and your rust problem might jack it up another couple of notches. Best path is to remove the pins with that spindle pin remover tool. Start soaking them with PB Blaster every day to help destroy any rust bonds.

The bolt for the front suspension is probably rusted in place. Same tip ..... use PB Blaster.

[NCLarry]

From the looks of your suspension components your Z has a severe case of Northern New Jersey rust probably aggravated by that wonderful corrosive, road salt.

It sure does. I was SOOO happy to read the threads about the electrolytic rust removal.. it works SOO well with little/no effort.

I've even picked up some of the large plastic beer tubs for the suspension arms, etc.

[NCLarry]

I've left beandip a pm for the diagram to make the spindle pin tool, but alas, no response as of yet.

Anyone else have the diagram handy? a tool they'd care to loan out (although I'd rather make one if the materials aren't too costly).

Please...

[GunnerRob]

I've left beandip a pm for the diagram to make the spindle pin tool, but alas, no response as of yet.

Anyone else have the diagram handy? a tool they'd care to loan out (although I'd rather make one if the materials aren't too costly).

Please...

Here's one for sale from a club member. I don't know if it's the same as kinfish is refering to.

http://www.classiczcars.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=268&sort=1&cat=4&page=3

[V8-240Z]

If you go to my web page www.V8-240Z.com there are pictures

of the pin pullers and directions on how they are made.

[Bambikiller240]

Dave:

Are you still making and selling them?

[V8-240Z]

Dave:

Are you still making and selling them?

Yup I still make them. $85 complete shipped to your door.

Or I sell the transition adapter and threaded rod for $35

shipped to your door, if you want to build the rest yourself.