Interesting you should mention the engine chains, it isn't a common mod...

The only reason why my engine got chained up was that the Rally scrutineers kept on moaning about the security of the originals.

Good old Lindsay and his mods did it again....

I have heard tell of big hp engines ripping the LH engine rubber apart. Would make sense to me under the right circumstances.

Dave

Just go to the link that B-killer posted and have a look !!!!!!! You DON'T need to chain up the diff , just looke at what Dave has come up with . It works and is simple and easy to install and looks good . I installed on on my Z , I already had the mound off the car so it was vary simple . He has posted instructions and everything HAVE A LOOK . Gary

Hi Gary,

I would prefer not to have chains, either on the diff or engine mounts.

It's simply that if a zed is presented at Rally Scrutiny without the said items, it will get "knocked" back.

I given up trying to argue with these people and just want to get out into the forest hence the reason for fitting chains to the diff & engine.....

MOM

The advantage of the drunk's one is that it is a bolt on job and adjustable, no mods required.

Those other two, both clamshell types it looks like, do require fabrication etc but should work well. How is the rubber piece held in place with them though? I've never found a rubber glue that works reliably.

The one made by V8-240Z doesn't use rubber from what I see, the other one uses an Engine mount that has been cut up on a band-saw thus using the rubber already bonded to the metal.

If I was making one, I'd just start with clean metal and clean rubber and try using weatherstrip adhesive

If I was doing the clamshell one I'd go get an adjustable foot pad for a table or workbench from the hardware store. The rubber pad is bonded on and you don't need to take a bandsaw to an old motor mount. It also has a threaded stud that can be used to screw it to the clamshell piece.

The main benefit I can see over the angle iron piece is that it never goes metal to metal so the sound transfer would be minimal. Also I think 1/8" plate would be plenty sufficient since that looks to be about the same size as the original diff mount itself. No need for 1/4" plate as described in the diagram I linked to.

I did a much more difficult modification myself, then right after I was done I found that very easy mod and kicked myself in the @ss for not finding it first. This was the design that I copied: http://240z.jeromio.com/diffmount.html. You can see how much more work there is in this one (even with a proper hole saw).

nevermind I misread the post I was replying to.

A bump stop from these guys is just what your looking for instead

of gluing something in or cutting up a motor mount

http://energysuspension.com/pages/bsp2.html

Ah, the right part for the job!

Thanks for the detailed opinions guys.

My front diff mount also featured a large steel counterweight of some kind that bolts to the bottom of the crossmember. Is this also an attempt to address this problem?

YES, In the USA it was added when customers complained of a loud clunk noise.