Need Help with Clutch Adjustment

[Marty Rogan]

I have a track date on Saturday. My clutch seemed to be loosing some grip at about 5,800 RPM. I would like it to hold a little longer than that at the track. This is a stock trans, and gine, build date 1/71, so it has the adjustable slave.

So, I got out the FSM and Haynes. Their descriptions leave a lot to be desired. Something like, back off the locking nut (pretty straight forward). Adjust the adjusting nut until the fork just stops moving (which way do you turn it, doesn't say; which way is the fork supposed to move, toward or away from the engine?). Then back off 1.5 turns and re-tighten locking nut.

After I tried to follow the directions, now I am starting to lose grip at 4,800 - 5,000. I have adjusted it back and forth about 10 times and it hasn't got any better. At this point, I would be happy to get it back where I started. The TO bearing seems to be making some noise now too. I don't think its bad, because it was replaced last year.

Can someone explain in detail how to get the proper adjustment? I tried a search, but it didn't reveal a good step-by-step procedure. I need to get a base-line to start from and adjust from there.

I only have tonight to get this right and I am off to the track at 5:00 am.

TIA,

Marty

[Victor Laury]

It maybe clutch change time, however, here's what I do.

I remove the spring, and see if there is any free play in the fork. If the adjuster is too tight (too far out), there will be no free play and that can cause your clutch to slip. The adjuster itself is depressing the clutch, partially disengaging it.

If the adjuster is too loose (too far in), there will be lots (more than 5 mm) of free play and your clutch will not fully disengage. That's often the trouble when people complain of gear grinding when shifting into first or reverse at idle.

Remove the spring and adjust the free play to about 2mm (just bareley any movement at all). If that what you have now, and it still slipping, time for a new clutch.

[Marty Rogan]

Remove the spring and adjust the free play to about 2mm (just bareley any movement at all).

Thanks for the response Victor.

Is that 2MM between the adusting nut and the fork, when the fork won't move anymore? I guess I am getting confused as to which direction to move the fork in to get the TO bearing up agains the PP fingers. Is it toward, or away from the engine?

Marty

[Victor Laury]

Is that 2MM between the adusting nut and the fork, when the fork won't move anymore?

Correct! push the fork aftwards. the free play is between the adjustment nut and the fork

[Marty Rogan]

Ok, thanks! I think I have got it now.

Marty