Front suspension rebuild

[mdbrandy]

Well I have an air compressor, so I thought about getting the equiptment to do bead blasting myself. In the long run it looked like it would be a strong investment. I don't know if you've seen where I am with my car,but I'll be starting frame up, so I think buying stuff for a bead blaster would be worth my while. I haven't started the suspension yet though.

How big a compressor do you have? My little Harbor Freight cabinet taxes my Craftsman compressor. It is only rated at about 6.8 cfm at 90 psi. When I start blasting it runs continuously, so I can only blast for "a while" and then let it rest.

I'd love to have more professional equipment, but it isn't in the budget right now.

[AChev]

I think my compressor is about 8 cfm. I know its not the best, but I think it should get the job done, as you stated. I don't know if I can afford to pay out somebody else to do this for me, plus there is such a greater sense of accomplishment. I also have a paint job to pay for soon, so I'm trying to be as smart with my money as I can, with sacrificing the least possible. Im looking to do similar work to ken

[jmanz6]

I built my cabinet because I wasn't going to pay that much for it. My compressor isn't the best for the job, but it keeps up. Doing the job yourself makes you feel very good about the project, but there are times when it's prudent to have someone else do it. I have all my large parts either dipped or blasted by someone else. I could do it in the driveway, but after the mess, and time, it's not worth it. I can drop it off and in 2-3 days be ready to reassemble. That is worth a lot to me. The little stuff I do. I do customer parts as well since I have the set up for blasting and plating, it's easier for me to do it than for them to do it themself. A lot of people have more time than money, and they will do everything themselves. I have a lot of respect for that. Then you know exactly how your work was done.

[ncz]

Hey guys, I'm going through the same thing also. I had (still have) the Craftsman 5 hp compressor, same story. I had some Holiday Inn points and converted them to Home Depot cards and bought the 2 stage from Husky there. It was 799.00, but they dropped it to about 740.00 on sale. The deal is Lowe's, they are dropping the 2 stage Campbell Hausfield compressors and they are selling them off for about 500.00. They had the same scfm setting as the Husky but higher psi. Wish I had seen it before I bought the Husky. These aren't "professional" grade, but they are two stage and give you all the air you need. And another thing, it is much, much quieter than the non-lube bath Sears stuff. That helps if you want to work while baby is sleeping. If you can swing it get the two stage, mperdue advised me on that one and he was right. PS, the Craftsman 175 psi single stage upright is pretty good but will still run on after it runs the tank. Good luck

[AChev]

jmanz, I was just on your website, and your prices are reasonable. When I get to that point in my restoration I will probably be contacting you about plating and what not. Thanks for the input though.

**Sorry Ken, I did not mean to hijack your thread, but this was all pertinant to suspension rebuilding

[kenz240z]

Schevets, the conversation is great. It's interesting to see the many different directions this has taken and the good ideas that are being discussed. I agree that the subject of a front suspension rebuild goes hand in hand with discussion on the tools needed for the job.

I am confined to working in my garage. Granted, it is a three stall garage, but it is a small three stall garage. Specifically, it is a short garage... I can't close the garage door if I pull my truck in. Right now the center stall is filled with my 240Z, the right stall is filled with the parts I removed from the car, and the left stall is where I work on the parts.

One of these days I hope to have a separate garage, preferable 3 or 4 large stalls, to set up as a shop. I could have one stall set up as a paint booth, and the other 3 would give me plenty of room to work.

A two stage compressor would be the way to go, with metal piping run throughout with taps conveniently located around the shop to keep air hose lengths short. Big tools would include an engine hoist, a hefty 3 1/2 ton floor jack, a blast cabinet, a large hydraulic press, a MIG welder, an Oxy-Acetylene torch, a large work bench with a good vise or two, a drill press, and a bench grinder.

For me, the greatest sense of satisfaction comes from taking something dirty, rusty and ugly (like my Z when I bought it!), and making it look nice again. I think the biggest hurdle to overcome is the fear of doing something that you've never done before, whether it be painting, body work, changing a strut, changing the brake pads, installing a headliner, rebuilding a carburetor or removing an engine. But, once you finish even the smallest project, it encourages you to take on a bigger one next time. All you need is the interest and the desire and you can do a lot of the work for a first rate restoration yourself.

Doing the work yourself isn't always cheaper. Mistakes can be expensive... and investing in good quality tools and equipment can be expensive. But, at least the tools tend to pay for themselves over the long run. You've also got to be able to dedicate the time to your project. In the end it is kind of a balancing act, deciding how much work to do yourself and how much to pay someone else to do. It's also a matter of safety, there are plenty of ways to injure or kill yourself when working on your car. Sometimes it's better to pay the pro rather than take a chance of getting hurt. Many of the new paints are highly toxic, welding & grinding equipment can cause a fire if you're not careful, then there are the bruised knuckles, too! It's important to know your limits before hand.

Kenny P.

[jmanz6]

For a job like rebuilding your suspension, tools are very important. If you invest in the tools to do the job (some are specialty tools) you will do it faster and better. However, since some of those tools are only used for one thing, it makes it harder to justify the investment. You can get creative, but that can also go too far. Take your time, be carefull, ask questions, and do it right the first time so you don't have to do it again. Good luck on the rebuild, I am about finished with my rear suspension rebuild.

 I would be glad to help you out. I have helped another member here as well. I do give a 10% discount to members.

[Mr Camouflage]

Quick question. The front pivot arm bolts go from rear to front (the nut being on the front side of the crossmember) correct?

[kenz240z]

Hi Mr. Camouflage, I am guessing that the pivot arm is the same as the front transverse link? If so, then you are correct. The bolt installs from the rear, with the nut on the front side. See the attached picture for a shot of the front crossmember, steering rack & transverse link set up from my '73 240Z.

Hope this helps!

Kenny P.

[Mr Camouflage]

Yeah thats the do-hicky. Forgot the tech term for it.

I thought they did, just wanted to be sure.

Thanks Kenny.