June 21, 200519 yr comment_128056 and what is the significance of this B mark? I haven't seen it referenced in my Clymer manual, and haven't really looked at the haynes yet, but I too am in the disassembly stage right now, and trying to save any future headaches. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16116-rear-wheel-bearing-preload/?&page=2#findComment-128056 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 21, 200519 yr comment_128057 and what is the significance of this B mark? I haven't seen it referenced in my Clymer manual, and haven't really looked at the haynes yet, but I too am in the disassembly stage right now, and trying to save any future headaches.The letter marking (A, B, C) on the outside of the hub needs to match the letter marking on the "distance piece" that goes inside the hub between the inner and outer wheel bearings. There are other threads that have more detail on this:http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14450&highlight=distance+piece Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16116-rear-wheel-bearing-preload/?&page=2#findComment-128057 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 21, 200519 yr comment_128058 OK, thanks a lot, I'll go read them now.! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16116-rear-wheel-bearing-preload/?&page=2#findComment-128058 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 21, 200519 yr comment_128085 I decided to take my rear assembly to a shop to pull the stub axles and bearings so I wouldn't mess them up without a press to and slide hammer to disassemble them. The bozo at the shop stripped the stub axles, where that crimped nut is. I don't know how, but he stripped about 1/2" of thread on one and 3/4" on the other. Good thing I have another set on the car right now. Like they always say, if you want it done right, do it yourself. I am so po'd right now, plus they still charged me $40!!!! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16116-rear-wheel-bearing-preload/?&page=2#findComment-128085 Share on other sites More sharing options...
June 22, 200519 yr comment_128151 I decided to replace the rear wheel bearings on my 78 280 in an attempt to solve a grinding noise - bingo, one of the bearings nearly locks up when I test it. I'm fairly certain that rust flakes caused the bearings to go bad as the cavity between the inner and outer bearings had a small pile of rust in it. So: how should I prevent rust from forming in there again before I reassemble everything? I have some POR but I can't find anything about high temp situations. I'm also thinking of just filling up the entire cavity with grease to match the new grease in the bearings. Any thoughts? Also, any thoughts about using the electrolitic rust removal process to clean up some of the pieces (axle stub, intermediate piece btwn half-shaft and stub nut)?Cheers! Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/16116-rear-wheel-bearing-preload/?&page=2#findComment-128151 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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