"Easy Out" bolt remover?

[Ricklandia]

Been searching for threads on rusted/snapped bolt removal. I managed to snap off one of the sway bar mounting bolts flush with frame rail. Some of the threads mentioned an "Easy Out" or "EZ Out". Can someone elaborate on this, or point me in the right direction? I've never heard of this gadget before.

My bolt is snapped flush enough that I have no chance of getting vice grips on it, and unfortunately I dont have a welder either to tack an extension on. :disappoin

[First Gen Z]

That bolt was locked in place by rust. It may take a little more than a simple EZ Out to remove it. I've broken the same bolts. An EZ Out is a tool that you drive into what's left of the broken bolt after you have drilled an appropriate size hole in it. It's a very simple tool to use altho it doesn't always work by itself. When the broken bolt is locked in place by rust the addition of heat will make the bolt and surrounding metal move slightly and that will break the rust bond. After the applied heat a liberal soaking with WD-40 or any of the other lubes will make the job a bit easier. Be sure to center punch the bolt so as to drill the hole in the center. Insert the EZ Out and twist it counter clockwise. If it refuses to come out then you may have to drill it out completely and retap the hole.

[mlc240z]

you have to be careful with EZouts. they're made from hardened steel and in my experience tend to be kinda brittle. if you have to apply too much torque on a rusted bolt with an EZout in place, there is a good chance you will snap it off in the hole. at that point you now have a piece of rust-frozen bolt with a chunk of hardened steel in the middle of it. the hardened steel is a bitch to drill out.

i agree with FirstGenZ, try heat first even if you intend to use an EZout.

[Bambikiller240]

Been searching for threads on rusted/snapped bolt removal. I managed to snap off one of the sway bar mounting bolts flush with frame rail. Some of the threads mentioned an "Easy Out" or "EZ Out". Can someone elaborate on this, or point me in the right direction? I've never heard of this gadget before................

The search box is your friend. Search term "EZ"

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13924&highlight=EZ

[26th-Z]

The sway bar mount area of the frame gets a lot of water and the sway bar bolt threads above the captive nut welded inside the frame get rusty. You were trying to unscrew a badly rusted bolt. Shame on you! And shame on whomever suggested WD-40. WRONG stuff for this application. Use pentrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil.

So if you go the EZ-out route, you are still trying to unscrew a seriously rusted bolt. DON'T DO IT, MAN !! Drill out the bolt and re-tap the threads to remove the rest of the bolt. Spray a bunch of oil up inside your frame. You have a rust issue.

[Ricklandia]

You have a rust issue.

Hehe, tell me something I didn't know!

Use pentrating oil like PB Blaster or Kroil.

On a more serious note, what makes these oils "penetrate" better than WD40 or other similar oils (CRC for example)?

[First Gen Z]

After applying heat to break the bond with the rust, WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC and some other penetrating oils that I don't know about will do basically the same thing. They will wick into all of the rusted areas and aid in the removing of the rusted and broken fastener. Though they are different formulas they are all very light weight petroleum products. I've been in this trade for 40 + years and have used them all. Trust me, use whatever brand you have on hand. They all will work. The real trick is to work carefully and patiently. This is an area that can turn into a real nightmare if you try to get in a big hurry.

[Bambikiller240]

After applying heat to break the bond with the rust, WD-40, PB Blaster, CRC and some other penetrating oils that I don't know about will do basically the same thing. ..............

And a bow and arrow wil do basically the same thing as an AK47.

WD40 is far less effective than PB Blaster or Kroil (or some other products). It is not even in the same league as these products.

Try one of these newer products and I doubt you'll ever go back to WD40.

$.0250

[First Gen Z]

You're right about the bow and arrow and the AK47. A nice clean head shot will result in the same outcome.

[Ricklandia]

hehe

well I was out and about (tool shopping :laugh: ) so I popped into the parts store and bought some PB Blaster penetrating oil. Can't hurt to try, it's only a buck or so more than WD40. Personally, I've always used WD more outta habit than anything else. Love the way it smells when sprayed on hot metal (smells like chocolate). I'm having a hell of a time cracking loose the lock nuts on my tie rod ends, hopefully this PB Blaster oil will show me I was wrong all these years.

[26th-Z]

Skip,

Learn something. WD-40 is NOT a penetrating oil. I doesn't do basically the same thing at all.

What's the difference? Viscosity, surface tension, chemical composition...stuff like that.

[Ed]

When you start to drill the broken bolt do as previously suggested and center punch the broken bolt. Accuracy is very important. Then start drilling first using a small bit 1/8, 9/64, or 5/32 will do. It is VERY important that you get the hole in the center and that you drill parallel with the bolt. After you have drilled out the center of the bolt spray some blaster in there. Then progressively increase the size of the drill bits (spraying blaster after every step) until you feel you are getting close to the threads. Now is the time to use the EZ out. Depending on the size of the last bit you used get the largest EZ out bit you can. DO NOT force the EZ out, they will break! Use some more heat if you have to but usually the heat generated from all the drilling will do. If you still can't get the bolt to budge then it's time to drill and tap ( If memory serves the bolt is a 8 X 1.25 so don't drill bigger than 9/32). The LAST thing you want is a broken EZ out on the frame.

Don't forget your safety glasses.