My 240Z doesn't crank - help!

[Ksteve]

The battery connections look good in the photos, but you may have fried something if you grouned out the positive lead on the starter body :disappoin

Check the fusable link and all the main fuses, if all ok you might have to take your starter to the local auto parts store and have it tested. They should test it for free and this will tell you if you need a new starter.

Make sure you disconnect the negative battery terminal before you touch any of the wiring :paranoid:

Good Luck

Steve

[78 280zcar]

Datsun Mike, On mine there was a nuetral safety switch I had to connect the two wires together which are green with a white stripe. I dont know if it would be the same on your year, mine was a 78. Mine would not start if I had those disconnected. Hope it helps!

[rclayton12]

Double and triple check the battery cables, they are cheap to replace and I had the same type of problem. I could somehow start the car just by jumping the wires, but the car wouldn't start without it. I replaced the terminals and it fired right up.

[Datsun_Mike]

I jump starter several of times but I get nothing. I'll try 78 280zcar's idea. I hope I got the same wire he is talking about. Oh and 78 280zcar...where is it located exactly on yours?

[sblake01]

I've tried searching the forum, and I've tried googling - all I can find is that this might be some kind of AC relay. I think it might be faulty and need replacing - does anyone know what it is and where I can find one?

(The second picture is where I took the part from - the passenger kick area).

Thanks!

The number on the relay (25230-89914) is shown as 'ASSY-RELAY AIRCON TYPE 14' in the parts CD. Try here, if it's still available, they should be able to get it for you.

http://www.nissanparts.cc/

And for Datsun Mike: The wires that 78 280zcar speaks of should be located near the right side of the trans, behind the starter, in the tunnel because that's where they would have connected to the inhibitor switch on the auto trans. Crimp those together and I believe that your problem will be solved.

[jackboxxx]

ok, now if reethi is able to "jump" the terminals @ the solenoid, and his car will start, then his ignition has juice getting to the coil, to allow the car to run, and the solenoid itself works because it allows the starter to crank, the starter works because it starts the car, the only thing left is the wire to the solenoid that closes the relay inside the solenoid and allows the starter to crank...

so all that needs to be done is to test this wire at various locations, till you find the problem spot in the wire...the most likely area is between the solenoid and the main harness "breakoff" point where it sits on the framerail below the battery. test to see if juice is coming thru that wire when you have the "key in the crank or start" position...if you dont have juice at the main harness point, id then check the back of the ignition switch to see if you have juice coming out of that wire when attempting to crank, before

un taping the harness and following the wire any further.

ignition switches on 30+ year old Z's tend to be pretty worn out.

if you have power there, then you have to start looking at your harness itself...look carefully around the area below the battery...ive seen several damaged harnesses from battery acid...then go to the inside of the firewall and see if your harness has been messed with between there and the ign switch.

If you suspect its inside the wrapped harness somewhere, you can run a jumper wire from the back of the ignition sw. to the solenoid to see if you can crank it from the switch then...if so, then start searching the harness.

[Datsun_Mike]

Got it running!!! Thanx sblake01 and all you guys that helped! Thanks to Arne too. Finally got to drive it around the block... not as fun as my old 510 but I still love it.

[78 280zcar]

Was it the inhibiter wires or the starter!

[Datsun_Mike]

It was the wires. Thanks 78 280zcar. You were also a big help.