brakes dragging bad

[VaGuS510]

I recently purchased a 240z that was sitting in a guys yard for 12 years. It is in pretty good shape but nothing was done to "store" it. I just got it off the trailer today and it was a pain to push. I jacked it up and found the brakes are all dragging. The back worst then the front but they are all dragging bad. Before this I realized the brake fluid was not fluid more like grease. It was sitting with the e-brake on so it could be siezed. but i think most of my problem is the brake fluid. Any ideas on how to get rid of it. Thanks for the help.

[First Gen Z]

Don't bother with trying to change the fluid. Remove all of the brake pieces and replace them or rebuild them. After sitting for 12 years I'm sure that nothing in the brake system is still serviceable. Brake parts are relatively inexpensive and other than being a bit time consuming the total brake job is not difficult.

[beandip]

More than likely the cylinders are all shot. Plan on replacing the master cylinder for the brakes and clutch as well as the slave clinder for the cutch and all the wheel cylinders . You might be able to blow out the brake lines with compressed air with out removing them from the car. Change all the rubber brake lines at each wheel. If not leaking now they will be in short order . They are cheep and will give you piece of mind later. Check the e-brake cable , many times they jamb and will not release in the sheath they are in. Be aware that the e-brake use , is the way the rear brakes adjust . When all is in working order . Each time the e-brake is used , if there is enough wear in the linings to allow an ajustment , when the e-brake is used it takes up the slack and this keeps the brakes in adjustment. If you havent tried to start the engine. Drain the oil and change the oil filter and plan on doing it again in about two hundred miles or less. Replace the fuel filter. Drain the fuel tank and blow out the fuel lines . remove the spark plugs and squirt in some oil in the plug hole. Marvel Mystery oil is a good one for this . If the engine is not frozen up and after the oil has been changed and oil in the cylinders , spin the engine on the starter 10 or so revolutions. This will oil the cylinders and help starting fresh oil moving . Likely the carbs are gumed up too. Buy some carb cleaner and shoot some in the top of the float chambers , this will help to free up any varnish and can help the flow of fuel. Watch to make sure that the carbs dont over flow when the engine starts running. If the engine does start , keep the RPMs up to about 1500 or so RPM so the oil pressure is up and every thing is moveing properly. If any clanking or screeching or weard noises are heard , shut it down. Watch the temp so that the engine dosent over heat . The best of luck to you and welcome to the club . Gary

[Mike]

Yea, you don't want to take any chances with the brakes. I went through the same pains as you and I eventually had to go out and buy all new slave cylinders. I also purchased a new master cylinder and had the brake system flushed. While you're under there, make sure you replace the wheel bearings and have the rotors turned. Get some new pads on there and you should be set.

Welcome to the world of old cars. Especially if the one you just bought was sitting for that long.