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I have not experienced the "play" you described but have experienced outer bearing on verge of failure causing a very annoying whine. Have you checked to verify the 27mm nut on inside is tight ...... 200+ ft-lbs is spec? Early Z's utilized a crimp nut that was staked after torque ...... check it visually with magnification before you do anything. Another source of play is failure of the ball bearings ..... but that would be evident with lotsa noise when you drive the Z.

anyone? anyone??

Dreco,

If not already covered,

the 240z stub axle shaft is smaller so to speak then the later 260/280 stub.

This point driven home, when we replaced stub axles during a race weekend "under stress" .....pulled a severed 280 stub axle, slapped in a 240z stub,didn't think to swap used the 280 inner flange.

BTW, pull wheel,then drum, carefully examine the weld where stub axle shaft is attached to plate that wheel studs come thru....if this completely fails, things can go bad real fast......

Be careful

Just a thought,

David

Dreco, what dspillman said.

When you say "play" you mean rotational play right? In that case I would guess that the stub axel and companion flange splines are shot, probably because wrong companion flange (large/small) used with stub axel (small/large).

Your going to have to pull halfshaft and companion flange to check splines. Also be sure to check for weld failure per dspillman.

If you have to change out stub and flange might as well do bearings and seal, and of course you will need a new axel nut.

Good news is I have a set (2 each) of stub axels/flanges in excellent condition that I could sell. I also have some used long (2 1/2 threaded) 1/2-20 wheel studs, or new extra long (3' threaded) 1/2-20 wheel studs. Sorry, no stock shorty wheel studs.

Dreco, what dspillman said.

When you say "play" you mean rotational play right? In that case I would guess that the stub axel and companion flange splines are shot, probably because wrong companion flange (large/small) used with stub axel (small/large).

Your going to have to pull halfshaft and companion flange to check splines. Also be sure to check for weld failure per dspillman.

If you have to change out stub and flange might as well do bearings and seal, and of course you will need a new axel nut.

Good news is I have a set (2 each) of stub axels/flanges in excellent condition that I could sell. I also have some used long (2 1/2 threaded) 1/2-20 wheel studs, or new extra long (3' threaded) 1/2-20 wheel studs. Sorry, no stock shorty wheel studs.

Yes I do mean rotational play.. when up on jack stands, I can rotate the wheel about 1/4 to 1/2 without the halfshaft moving. well I'll keep your parts in mind, but I found a 240Z that had rear wheel hubs in good condition, so i just took the whole strut assembly

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