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Out of the woods and into the garage


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These forums are awesome. I pulled my 71-Z out of the woods (it was covered) and into the garage a few weeks ago after my daily driver burned to a crisp. Bad fire - long story for the Mazda forum. :)

The engine has strong compression. I throughly cleaned the stock carbs and tuned them according to my Haynes manual. The car runs great now! However, stopping is another matter.

After finding brake fluid on the rear tires, I did a complete rear brake job. Still no brakes. Pedal to the floor - barely stopping.

Brake shop wants $1,000 for calipers, roters, master, and "set up". NO WAY.

I found out about the Toyota caliper conversion from this site and I decided to go that route. After I got the brake system disassembled, I discovered the brake shop was credible. The left caliper WAS sticking and the rotor DID need replacing. I replaced my master cylinder, but I still do not think that was the problem.

I found a post about a "reaction disk". I checked my power booster and sure enough... no reaction disk. I can't find one, so I am making one out of rubber washers. I hope it works. I suspect that was the main problem all along. I do seem to remember taking the master cylinder off a few years ago.... :stupid:

Anyway... I have my 300z rotors and toyota calipers. I have my back plate cut and everything is ready to install. I doubt it will work with my stock wheels, but we will see.

I need new struts all around... maybe this is a good time to replace.

I have a rust hole in the dogleg(?) under the battery, in the passanger floor pan, and under the rear hatch lid (weird place) right beside the latch on the horizontal surface. I'll probably find more rust as I start repairing.

The car used to be blue, but it was red when I got it. Now its two colors of primer, red and blue. nice. the engine compartment is bubbly black.. like an undercoating.. wonder if I can remove that without removing the engine...I want to completely disassemble, paint, and rebuild, but I dont think I have the patience to do that. For me to finish this project, I need to keep it simple. A good looking daily driver is my goal... yet part of me wants that show car!

My fuel pump may not work.. Im not sure. I was suspect when I couldn't get the car cranked so I bypassed it with an electric. I like the electric because it gets gas to the carbs before I turn the starter. Maybe this wouldn't be an issue if I would drive it regularly.

I am debating whether to keep the original look, or to add air dams, better seats, etc. Any thoughts on value of originals?

I am inclined to fix the car up like I like it rather than to keep it original. Let me know if you think this is a bad idea. I think I have all matching serial numbers.

I used to be an engineer (Im a business professor now) so I like to tinker with things and I'm pretty good at it. I have a pretty good tool set, but I'm not hard core. I depend heavily on Haynes and forums like this.

Here is my project list:

Brakes

Body

Paint

Interior

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Hi 71-240Z, and welcome!

These forums are awesome. I pulled my 71-Z out of the woods (it was covered) and into the garage a few weeks ago after my daily driver burned to a crisp.
What else do those woods near you have in them? ROFL
I am debating whether to keep the original look, or to add air dams, better seats, etc. Any thoughts on value of originals?
Those kind of mods can be undone if at a later date you decided to go original.
I am inclined to fix the car up like I like it rather than to keep it original. Let me know if you think this is a bad idea. I think I have all matching serial numbers.
That's what the majority of us here tend to do.
I used to be an engineer

I'm a designer, so I won't hold that against you. ROFL

I have a pretty good tool set, but I'm not hard core.
Are you bragging or just being truthful?
I depend heavily on Haynes and forums like this.
Most of us here do.
Here is my project list:

Brakes

Body

Paint

Interior

Looks like a good starting point.

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AARG.. just when I thought I had everything... I opened the 300zx rotors and they don't fit...too many bolt holes. Mis-labled box from parts store. Maybe I'll have brakes tomorrow!

Rob... just being honest... I cant do everything I want to do because I dont have all the cool tools - like an air compressor or an engine stand. I have a slab of concrete and basic hand tools. I even got kicked out of the garage because the kids (five under 7yrs) needed a play room. I splurged and got some jack stands last week.

I need some spacers for this brake job but I don't know where to put them. I hope it will be obvious once I get the correct rotors.

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i could sell you original brakes from a 72 240z and rotors. The only one that needs to be fixed is the right rear wheel cylinder... it needs replacing ( damn bleed screw broke) The rotors are rusty but they dont have much wear considering the car only had 33.5k miles on it. Just figured i would offer incase you want them.. If not good luck!

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71_240Z , Welcome . You mentioned that you found rust below the battery tray. The frame rail is just below the battery . Are there any rust holes in the rail? If so this is a must repair. What is known as the dog leg is the area just to the rear of the door and ahead of the rear wheel down low. If you need a floor pan Zeddfindings has the best quality . Plus Charley Osborne is a vary helpfull guy. zedfind@kos.net Rust on the hatch sill is common but usually is found at the corners where the sill meets the finder. If you get industrious and ever pull the front fenders , you will find a design flaw were the cowl drains into a chamber just forward of the doors . Debris and dirt deposited there cause the rust problems found at the lower fender section . And with the frame rail that is also the rocker pannel runing along the floor below the door. You mentioned that you may need some tools. Look at harbor freight , they have great deals on tools like jack stands and such. They are on line also and will ship. As for the serial , that is up to debate. If kept origional by all means it is important. I for one am not doing so. I have a 280zx engine and later diff. I am keeping the rest of the Z stock looking except for the paint which is a nonstock yellow. The vary best with your project , remember if you have ANY questions , were here . Gary

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  • 3 months later...

All brake systems are working, the engine runs great!

I had to rebuild the wiper moter and linkages. It turned out that the linkage was just too rusty to move. I took the motor apart and sanded the rotor nice and shiny. It had burned in a couple of spots because it could not turn due to the rusted linkage. I broke the rust and greased everything real good. Now I can drive in the rain!

So.. I'm driving in the rain on the interstate. The flow of traffic is 75 to 80 mph. So Im going with the flow. The car dies - like it runs out of gas. As I am pulling off the side of the road, the engine revs back up! This happens several more times. THEN then engine starts whining like a jet engine. O CRAP!!

The car drives fine in the 50-60 mph range, so I make it back home. I replace the fuel filter, and a couple of fuel lines. The line that goes from the tank to the gas cap had a small hole in it. I guess that explains the gas on the ground when I fill up. I thought I was just over filling.

I cut the fuel filter open and it looks like it its FULL of wet coffee grounds. The filter was about 1/3 full of this gunk. No wonder I get no fuel flow. I suspect that it is rust, but I coated the tank 8 years ago. I guess the coatings don't last.

The whining turned out to be a frayed alternator belt.

All is well, but the car looks like crap.

I need to do some rust work. Then paint.

I wish I knew how to weld.

I like black, red, blue and the car happens to be all of those colors right now.

Its also orange, green, and two colors of primer. Its a work of art. Maybe I should just clear coat it and move on.

What do you think?

Well.. I tried to post a picture... see my gallery.

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gogriz,

its four bolts to get the motor out, but you have to disconnect the wipers - another few bolts. I just cut open the plastic bag. I couldnt figure out how to open it without ripping. Everything was fused together over time. Once open, everything in the bag looked brand new.

You have to be a contortionist to get the whole thing out, but once out, you can put the wiper pegs into a vice and beat them until they loosen up. I kept working mine and adding grease until they moved effortlessly.

Since I cut the waterproof bag on the bottom, i just put it back in the car as is.

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