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Rear Axle bearing question


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Mark,

For heat you could use one of those halagen (sp?) work lights if you have one, up close and focused on the hub would bring it's temp up quite a bit but still short of burning off the paint. I recommend putting the bearing in a plastic bag during the freezing part, this will let you transport it without body heat warming it and keep frost off of the part too. I have used this method many times working on antique tractors and it works great, I've had some that seemed that they were going to be a pound to destruction become a fall in place with the freezing or heating method depending upon where it is going, and for sure a cold bearing is much easier to handle than a hot one!!!

Excellent idea! I have several big 500W halogen worklights. I can set one right on the A-arm, pointing into the bearing hub. Ought to raise it's temp a bit!

I had already figured on using the plastic bag. The one thing that worries me is the condensation that will definately happen on the bearing after I take it out of the bag and install it in the hub (notice that positive thinking!). You know how humid it is back here in good old IL/IN! But I figure since the grease is totally packed into the bearing spaces, the condensation will only happen on the external surfaces, so hopefully it will dry easily and completely. Don't want water in the bearings!

Thanks for the ideas! That's why I love this site! I'll let you know how it works out...

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I agree with LanceM's suggestion to freeze the inner bearing. Put bearing in a ziploc bag and put in freezer for several hours. Instead of heating the hub with torch, simply put the assy outside in the sun for several hours. Nice and hot in Florida but you guys in IL may not see the sun for awhile since the remants of hurricane Dennis is drifting north. Find something sized to drive the outer race squarely into the hub. The inner bearing I installed measured 2.748 inch OD for the outer race. I also didn't have the proper micrometer to check the actual dia of the hub ID. Taking depth measurements before assembly is a good check to insure the bearing is fully seated.

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Agreed, but I was figuring you would have the bearing packed, I figure the condensation wouldn't be any worse than it is going to see in it's lifetime with normal tempature fluctuations, just grease it up good and you'll be good to go!

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BTW, moisture??? here in IN??? it is drier than a cardboard fart around here, we are like 4" short on rain since June, the only thing green around here is my truck and it is turning brown with all of the dust. On the plus side I haven't had to mow the grass in about a month and if things keep up I may never have to again :)

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Don't forget to apply a thin film of grease on bore the bearing race presses into....it will reduce the insertion friction as well as prevent any moisture getting trapped between the race and the bore it gets pressed into. Sometimes getting the race perfectly square to the bore, prior to pressing it in, is a real chore without a nice press. Also, be certain the race is completely seated without any metal particals under it.

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BTW, moisture??? here in IN??? it is drier than a cardboard fart around here, we are like 4" short on rain since June, the only thing green around here is my truck and it is turning brown with all of the dust. On the plus side I haven't had to mow the grass in about a month and if things keep up I may never have to again :)

Well, that's the same situation here, but the air is usually nicely saturated, even if we can't get any of it to fall onto the plants! Maybe I could put my whole yard in a freezer and condense some water onto it when I took it out!

Or water it. But that takes effort ROFL ! It's only grass!

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Don't forget to apply a thin film of grease on bore the bearing race presses into....it will reduce the insertion friction as well as prevent any moisture getting trapped between the race and the bore it gets pressed into. Sometimes getting the race perfectly square to the bore, prior to pressing it in, is a real chore without a nice press. Also, be certain the race is completely seated without any metal particals under it.

I actually did that after the 2nd time I took it out (put a little grease in the hub itself to "grease the skids" as it were...). Getting the stupid thing square is a definate chore. I will be sure it is all nice and clean again before I try to insert the frozen bearing again...

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OK. Smoothed and polished the inner hub surface where the bearing fits. Even took a little polishing bob that I had a bit of polish on and smoothed it out slick as ice. Cleaned it all out with a degreaser/cleaner. Then a little coating of grease.

3 hours in the big freezer for the bearing. Really cold. About 2 hours with the 500 Watt halogen 4 inches from the hub. Entire hub too hot to touch. 90 seconds from freezer to bearing insertion in hub. Didn't have to hit it once. It just slid in. All the way to the stop. Wow.

So now, of course, I'm worried that I took too much off the hub surface, and the bearing will now be loose in the hub. But we'll see. I'll let it come to thermal equilibrium overnight and see if I can pull it out by hand. If not, then I'm home free!

Thanks for the ideas guys. Saved my bacon. I want to drive my car again!

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Great job Mark. I'll bet when the temps equalize, you will have ZERO problems. And you'll have the satisfaction of knowing the bearing is seated all the way nice and square in the bore.

Congrats! You just made us a Tech Article!!

Chris

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Great job Mark. I'll bet when the temps equalize, you will have ZERO problems. And you'll have the satisfaction of knowing the bearing is seated all the way nice and square in the bore.

Congrats! You just made us a Tech Article!!

Chris

:classic: :classic: :classic:

I have a BUNCH of pictures that I'll have to get together and do something with once I get through all of this. Next is inserting the axles with the outer bearings. Maybe I should freeze them too!

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