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Worried....how do u protect ur z from being stolen


bemmerguy714

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I don't have to remind you not to believe everything that you read., Mr Blakeney. I KNOW you are smarter than that.

That is one of the great thingss about these forums. I could have an S30, S130, Z31, and a Z32 (I'd NEVER have a Z33!) and unless I choose to make that info public; no one here would ever know it.

signed,

Jillian Barberie :)

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I don't have to remind you not to believe everything that you read., Mr Blakeney. I KNOW you are smarter than that.

That is one of the great thingss about these forums. I could have an S30, S130, Z31, and a Z32 (I'd NEVER have a Z33!) and unless I choose to make that info public; no one here would ever know it.

signed,

Jillian Barberie :)

Whatever you say. You need to practice what you preach about being able to take a joke. It was in the same spirit as your needling earlier in this thread. You have no clue about my intelligence nor do I about yours so let's just carry on and not even go there.

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Jack,

Thanks for the diagram. The wire from the alarm, would that be the same as the single wire for the trunk and engine bay switch? Does the relay need a constant connection? I know that some of the extensions from the alarm will produce a pulse, or short burst.

Thanks again

Scott

Sorry about that guys, its been kinda hectic lately.

anyways, theres the simple diagram just 4 wires...and a diode.

any local radio shack or electronic store should have the parts, or even the local stereo / alarm shop...for just a couple bucks...all you need is a 1 amp diode but a bigger one wont hurt. try to get a bosch or potter brand.

fuelpump7iu.th.gif

relay wiring diagram

diode14yo.th.jpg

diode

relay27eo.th.jpg

relay

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Jack,

Thanks for the diagram. The wire from the alarm, would that be the same as the single wire for the trunk and engine bay switch? Does the relay need a constant connection? I know that some of the extensions from the alarm will produce a pulse, or short burst.

Thanks again

Scott

Hey Scott,

Nope that is an negitive Input wire...that your talking about. its used for when you connect to (in the case of a 240z or roadster) a pinswitch you installed to detect when someone opens/breaks into your hatch/trunk/hood.

What you need is a negitive Output wire. there are many ways to do this , but look at for example your Starter disable output wire, its usually a constant - output when armed. you can control more than 1 item with this wire, like the starter and the fuel pump idea. But if your going to do this,, you need to do it right., meaning you need to isolate each item your running the alarm wire to. think of the wiring like an upside down Y, 1 wire out of the alarm, split into 2 wires..at the point where your going to split, you need to put a diode inline, allowing the negitive current to flow through, but not back..towards the alarm or other device. the diodes need to be inserted inline with the band facing towards the alarm.

. the other outputs you are talking about are for other accessories, like power door locks, electric trunk release, etc..or anything you want to control that only need a temporary output. I used to pop my fuel door, trigger window rollup/rolldown start my car. lock and unlock doors, and pop the hatch too . (this wasnt a 240z...LOL) all with 1, 2 button alarm system.

What kind of alarm do you have Scott?? If i know the system i can point out what will work best.

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Jack,

It's an Alpine SEC-100S. I have a 150R too, but I think the only difference is the radar.

Thanks for the help.

Scott

Hey Scott, do you have the wiring diagrams for them??

if you happen to have it, just scan or take a pic of diagram and send it to me.

It list in its features that it has the armed output...and a 3 rd channel that can be a Continuous output. there may be more...hard to tel just from the retail spec sheet

Lance

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