It took awhile, but I finally finished the rear suspension rebuild on my '73 240Z. I found the hardest part to be cutting out the old outer bushings on the transverse links. :lick: I used an air powered body saw to cut the old shells, but it took quite a bit of hammer & chisel work to persuade the old shells to come out.

The right spindle pin came out with just a bit of persuasion with a brass punch & hammer. The left side was rusted together pretty good. I ended up taking the strut assembly & transverse link to an alignment shop and they were able to use a press to separate the two.

Once I had everything apart, I spent a few weeks cleaning all the pieces. Once clean, I sprayed the parts with Eastwood rust encapsulator, followed by Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Black. The parts turned out very nice, but the Extreme Chassis Black is glossier than the original black paint. I think that Eastwood's Classic Black chassis paint is closer to the original. But, for a weekend driver I think I can live with the glossier paint!

There are a few before & after shots in my gallery.

Kenny P.

Interesting, my left spindle pin is frozen in also. I cut the pin on either side of the strut with a sawzall, drilled a pilot hole in the middle of the remaining pin and an air chisel with a pointy tip won't even budge it. Its going to the machine shop for pressing when I get the time.

but to my point, in searching spindle pins, it seems common that the right one comes out easily and the left one is frozen.

looks great, and nice Z man!

Spindle pin puller is the trick. No Z DIY'r should be without one. Pays for itself the first time you use it. Once you try it you'll like it. Especially the savings on the replacement pins.

I thought about using a spindle pin puller. I already had new spindle pins and lock bolts, so I knew I wouldn't be re-using the old ones. I started on the right side and was encouraged when that spindle pin came out fairly easily.

I think that the right side transverse link and spindle assembly may have been replaced at one time. The left strut assembly and transverse link were quite rusty and pitted under all the dirt and grime, whereas the right side was in good shape with minimal surface rust.

Anyway, I'm glad I'm finally finished with the suspension work. I started back in March. The most time consuming part of the whole project was cleaning all the parts to prepare them for new paint.

Now I can focus on finishing the installation of the rebuilt engine!

Kenny P.

Looks good, I just went through this as well.... The spindle pins were by far the worst thing to try and take off.

My solution... BIG hammer... and buy new pins. hehe

My solution... BIG hammer... and buy new pins. hehe

Yup. Me too! That, and coating the new pins with anti-seize during installation... just in case I ever have to pull them out again.

It isn't usually corrosion that makes the pins stick. It is the deformation of the spindle pin by the special bolt that keeps it from turning. I have looked at a healthy niumber of stuck spindle pins that were successfully removed, and on all of them, there was a pronounced new wear area at either end of the recess formed into the spindle pin for the retaining bolt. Corrosion was present, but the deformation is what locked the pin in the hole.

Will

Mine were pretty well corroded... but deformation could definitely have also been an issue as well.

I saw someplace else someone had used a 12 gauge shotgun bore cleaner ( wire brush kind ) to clean out the inside of the spindle pin bore so I tried that on the end of my electric drill... Worked incredibly well to clean up that area and enable the new spindle pins to slide in smooth.

It isn't usually corrosion that makes the pins stick. It is the deformation of the spindle pin by the special bolt that keeps it from turning. I have looked at a healthy niumber of stuck spindle pins that were successfully removed, and on all of them, there was a pronounced new wear area at either end of the recess formed into the spindle pin for the retaining bolt. Corrosion was present, but the deformation is what locked the pin in the hole.

Will

I've seen situations where "set screws" had a little brass/copper disk (equal to the diameter of the screw) that acted as a pad between the screw and the shaft it was holding.

There should be no reason the overtighten the retaining bolt. It's only purpose apparently is to prevent the shaft from rotating and causing excess wear in the spindle assembly.

I know I saw it here once, but can't find it. Is it still possible to buy replacement Transverse links? I think it might be easier than trying to get those damn outer TL bushings out. Pins were no problem for me. Go figure.