percolating????????????????

[richard1]

I live in Las Vegas since ten years and it is the first year I have real problem with fuel evaporation. I always fill with premium.

The engine temperature is normal. Ater a drive, I park the car for ten minutes and I am not able to start back. After a wait of 30 minutes I succeed to start the engine with effort.

Yesterday temperature was 113F.

Any suggestion to fix the problem?

Is there any emission control parts that would need to be replaced at 88,000 miles lthat could be related to the problem?

[Dtsnlvrs]

Remove the cowl seal

[e_racer1999]

do you still have the injector cooling vent on your engine?

[richard1]

What is a cowl seal and an injector cooling vent?

I forgot to specify it is a 72, 240z.

[Dtsnlvrs]

The cowl seal is the strip of rubber on the top of the firewall where the hood and firewall meet, it is at the front of the cowl, hence the name cowl seal. Removing the cowl seal will allow underhood heat to escape thus reducing underhood temps.

[LanceM]

Since your's is a 72 you probably don't have an electric fuel pump, that was the dealer/factory fix in 73 for that problem, an electric pump was added back by the tank to help the mechanical pump push the fuel through and "help" eleminate vapor lock.

[e_racer1999]

oh! i thought you had an injected model.... nm....

you should bypass the intake heating tube....

[richard1]

I was thinking to do that but I never had any problem before.

My engine is full stock and last year, I wrapped all the fuel lines in the engine bay with foam insulation.

I also have the original steel fan shroud.

My car has the dealer installed A/C still running perfectly but the engine temperature is always right in the middle.

Can the A/C set-up accentuate the problem of vapor lock in hot climate?

[richard1]

I apologize on my last post that can bring confusion...........

I was thinking about blocking the water flow from the thermostat housing to the carbs manifold as some members suggest.

I would like to have a procedure to perform this work:

-Which is the nut size to plug the thermostat housing?

-Which nut size to plug the manifold inlet?

-Which nut size to plug the manifold outlet?

-How to plug the back steel pipe?

Richard

[beandip]

You don't want to block off the coolent from the intake and carbs. The coolent helps to cool the carbs and in cold weather it will help the engine warm up and run sooner. Install a electric pump by where the fuel line exits the tank . If you look along the wires that run to the sending unit in the tank , you will find the wires one green and one black rolled up and taped up with blue tape. These are for a electric pump. Be sure to add a inline fuel filter in the line before the pump . You should find a green wire with a inline fuze near the fuze pannel at the console by the heater pannel . The green is hot and the black is ground. This should help with the problem.

[speedyblue]

My car did exactly the same thing when I first got it. The crank case ventilation hose that ran from the block (near the distrubutor) into the balance pipe on the manifold was cracked and sucked in fresh air, causing it to not start when hot. Wait half an hour and it was fine. I bought a new one about three years ang from Nissan and it has never had a starting problem since.

Something to check anyway.

[richard1]

What should be the suggested pressure rating for an electric pump?