Rebuilt engine, installed and running!

[kenz240z]

Today I finished the final preparations for firing up the rebuilt engine I recently installed in my '73 240Z. Back in March I developed a head ache, so to speak... A white, billowy, sweet smelling smoke was issuing forth from my exhaust. I had hoped it would only be a bad head gasket, but turned out to be a problem with the head itself leaking coolant into a few cylinders. :dead:

Anyway, off with the head, took it to T&D Auto in Hygiene, CO, a fine Z focused shop. Sure, they could replace the head, but they said I should bring the engine in, too. So, about a month ago I picked up the rebuilt engine. I was still working on rebuilding the rear suspension, so the engine had to wait awhile... I finally finished the rear suspension rebuild and dropped the rebuilt engine into my Z last week!

I've been busy hooking everything back up and on Friday I got everything put back together and was ready to fire it up. When I first turned the key, nothing happened. Buzz kill... went back through all the electrical connections in the engine bay, to make sure everything was hooked up correctly. Everything still looked good, so I gave the key another twist. Still nothing... it was then that I remembered to look at the connections in the steering column. Sure enough, the ignition switch connector was not seated! :stupid: Turned the key again and they engine cranked! But, it wouldn't start.

The noodle scratching began... I pulled the fuel line and cranked the engine. Gas was flowing. Good. I pulled the coil wire and put it next to one of the strut tower bolts. Cranked the engine and saw a spark. Good!. Pulled a plug and grounded it. Cranked the engine, weak spark... Checked the point gap, it was off. Fixed that. Cranked the engine, still nothing. :mad: What next? I was ready to pull what hair I have left out of my head. Hmm, what about the timing. Kind of hard to check without the engine running. But, possible to check the static timing. So, bump engine until #1 piston is at top dead center. Check. Verify timing marks line up with pointer. Check. Remove distributor cap and see where rotor is oriented. Hmm, looks a little off.

Time to consult the Chilton's manual. Somewhere in the section on engine mechanical repair there is a sketch of how the distributor drive spindle should be oriented. I removed the distributor and looked at how the shaft was oriented. Hmm, the manual shows the shaft oriented at about 11:00. Mine looks like its more like 1:00. So, I removed the oil pump, made a bit of a mess, and after a couple of tries got the spindle oriented like the manual says. In goes the distributor, turn goes the key, and badabing! The engine roars to life!

Ah, all is well for the moment. The valves are making a bit of a racket, so back to the shop my Z will go next week. I'll have them go through the valve adjusment, set the timing and tweak the carbies. Oh, and I have a new Pacesetter header that I'll have them put on. My Z is finally back on the road!

Kenny P.

[GunnerRob]

If you're so inclined, here's a good tech article on adjusting your valves yourself. It is actually simple to do using this method.

Here's the place:http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1803105&uid=786489

P.S. You've done a very nice job there!

[kenz240z]

Thanks, GunnerRob. That is a very informative link. I would adjust the valves myself, but since the engine was recently rebuilt I'm going to press the shop that did the work to adjust them.

Kenny P.