Starter Issues HELP!!!!

[Spieg16]

I have a stock 1975 280Z with an automatic transmission. My car seems to have had this same problem for about 6 years now and I do not know what there is left to do to fix it. Sometimes when you turn the key the engine does not turn over at all then you turn it again and the engine will start right up. There have been times where I have had to turn the key 7 times to get the engine to crank. I have tried 3 different starters, so I know it is not that, also, a new battery, new alternator, and new voltage regulator, so it's not anything to do with the charging system, and my mechanic has also bypassed the neutral safety switch. I don't know what else to do.

If you have any Ideas please respond, Jason

[EScanlon]

A common problem with the 240's is the actual IGNITION switch. That part that connects to the back of the Ignition Key Cylinder.

Sometimes the contacts inside this switch get worn and corroded to where you have to push in hard.

To verify if this is the problem, remove the Steering Column Shroud, remove the Ignition Switch from the back of the Ignition Lock, then turn the switch with a flat blade screwdriver WITHOUT pushing in. If you're able to repeat your problem, you've found the culprit.

Enrique

[Spieg16]

The thing is that when you turn the key and nothing happens you get a buzzing like the starter is sticking.

[sblake01]

Does the 'buzzing' sound like the starter is spinning but not engaging? If so, you've got a bad flex plate. I had a 72 510 with and automatic that had the same problem.

[dogma420]

bad starter or dead battery...even if you've replaced them, that's the symptom of a bad starter/dead battery/bad battery wires--corrosion.

[Spieg16]

It sounds like it's engaging the starter, but it is not spinning at all

[Nacks]

You might have voltage drop.That's when there are so many 'losses' through your 30 year-old wiring system running from the battery, fusebox, ignition switch then the starter that there's not enough left to activate the starter motor and it just clicks sometimes. Other times it may be fine. This can tend to happen more when the car's hot. You'll need the help of a friend, an easy test would be to turn the key to Start and if it just 'clicks', get them to put a screwdriver between the main terminal on the starter motor (where the lead from the battery's + terminal bolts on) and the little spade terminal just next to it, bridging the two. Make sure you kep holding the key on Start while they're doing this.

If the starter motor kicks in when they 'bridge' the two terminals, your problem's voltage drop. Because, by using the screwdriver on the starter, they're putting full battery voltage to the spade terminal, bypassing the car's wiring system.

If this fixes the problem, all you need is a $5.00 mini-relay, a few lengths of wire and some terminals. And you'll never have to worry about it again.

I can help you with wiring up the relay too if you need it.

Nacks

[Ed]

Old battery cables. Replace with some new ones. Clean the contact points with some sand paper.

[Spieg16]

The Battery cables are brand new and clean but I will try nacks's idea.

[Spieg16]

Nacks, I was wondering if you could basically walk me through how to wire everything up.

Thanks, Jason

[Spieg16]

Nacks, I never got a chance to thank you, you saved me from selling my car. If anyone has this problem use what Nacks told me about installing a relay. My car starts with the 1st turn of the key every time now.

Jason

[Spieg16]

Sorry forgot to post what he actually told me to do

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Install a 12v 'normally-open' mini relay, connecting one side of the relay's 'pull-in' coil (push-on connector) to the existing 'start' wire from the ignition switch (push-on terminal on starter).

The other side of the pull-in coil goes straight to earth.

There's a set of contacts in the relay with two external push-on connectors.

Run a wire from the main battery feed on the starter motor to one of the contact connectors on the relay.

Run another wire from the push-on connector on the starter motor solenoid to the other contact connector on the relay.

This should bypass the old wiring system, feeding straight 12v to the starter motor. It puts a MUCH smaller load on the car's wiring and eliminates starting problems caused by voltage drop.