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wrong firing order but it ran perfet


chickenwafer

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ok bench racers, ingest this shot of stupid. I re-did the points to the proper firing order and the car WILL NOT start. Of course, on the wrong firing order, it turns over and runs perfect. Yes, perfect. It starts on a dime, drives good, still pulls hard, etc, but still has a large hesitation at low rpm (I can't give exact rpm figures because my tach is dead). Now, the correct firing order starting from the most left point and then going counter-clockwise is 1,5,3,6,2,4, right? I am going by the labeled picture Carl (aka Bambikiller) posted in another thread when I did a search this morning.

One of my other car friends seems to think the timing is off but that shouldn't effect the firing order. I really have no clue what to do.

Dave

PS, here's Carl's picture:

post-7457-14150795642261_thumb.jpg

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Pull a the #1 spark plug, bring the piston up to tdc. Your rotor should point at #1. If

that position is off from the diagram (Carl's Picture) then your oil pump shaft is not properly positioned. I once bought a 510 with that problem for $200 because he couldn't get it to run. I got it home and 20 minutes later it was running like a charm!

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I think your firing order is right Gav, you're just looking at it the opposite way 'round the dizzy! :) 6-3-5-1-4-2 is just 1-5-3-6-2-4 in reverse starting from 6

I think you might be right. For some reason i thought the distributor rotor button turned clockwise not anti-clock wise. I'm sure that I've heard a friend of mine tell me he's changed his firing order and at the time I asked him how is it possible? I don't recall exactly what he said at the time but I'll definately have to chase it up with him.

I know that after the Australian Z Nationals here when my distributor failed on me and I almost had to leave my Z halfway to sydney. I got back to Melbourne using a mates distributor since he trailered his Z up. When I got back I pulled another distributor and marked the firing order according to that Z's setup since my mate had set that one up with the different firing order I basically transferred the set up across. However from the look of it the order was no different.

It's definately something I have to chase up with him. It's entirely possible I mis-interpreted what he said. :stupid:

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Gav. You are still running the correct firing order, its just out of phase with the correct order. Someone hasnt made sure that everything was correctly timed up when they put the engine back together. Its 120 degrees out from standard.

Seem odd, but if your engine runs, I wouldnt worry about it too much untill you rebuild the engine again.

I'd remove spark plug number 1 and turn the engine over by hand untill #1 is on compression (you'd probably have to remove the valve cover to make sure). Then when its ad TDC, I'd open up the dizzy and see what number its pointing at.

I'd guess that its pointing at number 1 (in your green numbering).

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Ok here is my firing order dead set no jokes I double checked and here it is.

The firing order is 2-4-1-5-3-6 going by Carl's original example.

See image I attached:

Your oil pump shaft had definately been moved. But if you start at your #1 the firing order is still correct.

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Your oil pump shaft had definately been moved. But if you start at your #1 the firing order is still correct.

Yeah I realised that after Mr C's post. I guess my friend was saying that he was changing the firing order however he didn't mean the actual order of how the cylinders fire but more in what position they fire.

I guess it can be interpreted in a few ways main thing is the car runs fine and has plenty of advance. We set the distributor up with all mechanical advance no vacuum advance is neccessary with this configuration.

Sorry for the confusion I guess that happens when I only take a quick look at the situation.

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Oh, I wasn't confused. I've had some expericence with setting up the distributor/oil pump confirguration on both the L4's and L6's. The principle is basically the same. I don't see, however, how you get more advance by moving it around to your present setup. Oh well, maybe that's just a trick that I am not aware of. I just hope Chickenwafer gets squared away. Now his situation is confusing.

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i set piston #1 at TDC and the rotor was pointing to where number 5 goes. I simply moved all the points on location counter-clockwise and it fired up right away. So I guess my firing order is one point off?

Well, I had her out today and she quit on me about 800 feet from my house. Of course, I had 2 huge hills to tranverse so there was no way I could push her up there. I think I ran out of gas but I'm not sure. The kicker is the key is now stuck in the "ON" position of the ingition. I can't turn it without bending the key and since it's my only copy I don't want to break it. I will get a few spares made latter today, hopefully.

But does anyone know how to fix the key lock? It's stuck pretty good, like it is in the lock position but the steering still moves freely. And I can still remove and insert the key even though it's in the "ON" position. I disconnected the battery to save some life because it doesn't have much to spare anyways. Any suggestions would be great. Thanks in advance.

Dave

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Actually, like we talked about earlier in this thread, your oil pump shaft/distributor alignment is off. If it runs this way, and you can proprely set the timing, I would leave it there. I just don't know if the timing mark show proprely with that type of arrangememt. A locksmith can fix that key lock. You'll have to remove it and take it to him with the key. It's kind of a pain to remove if it's never been out because of the two security screws. I always replace them with regular screws when I reinstall.

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