Gas fume fixes and removing the tank

[perry]

Need to solve gas fume problems on my 73z(especially bad after overfilling tank) and have read numerous suggestions on various sites but can't decide which avenue to take;

1) Replace all the hoses to/from tank. McMaster-Carr has them cheaper then anyone else I have found. I assume I need to fully remove the tank and reinstall, which sounds like a HUGE job based upon negative feedback.

2) Replace the one vent hose on top of the tank and plug all the others at the tank while also removing the small tank behind the filler nozzle. The lone vent hose would be connected to the down spout somehow. Still, I assume I need to remove/reinstall tank. HUGE job.

3) If replacing the hoses, is it advisable to replace the filler hose? This one seems very expensive.

Is there any option of NOT removing the tank to perform these modifications? Or, has the operation of removing/reinstalling the tank been exaggerated? Anyone done this?

[SteveJ]

What? Didn't you like the answers you got on the Zcar.com website?

[LanceM]

I don't see that R&R of the tank is a big deal, I've had the one out of my 73 several times. Sure it's a PIA but no big deal, you want one that sucks do an 89 Olds 88, took me 4 hours just to get the tank down!

The only must have is a floor jack or somebody to hold the tank during the take out/put in... if you are replacing the hoses anyway cut the old ones and drop the tank, route the new and trim and connect as you jack the tank into position. Unless the filler hose cracks or tears or is cracked I wouldn't replace it.

[jmortensen]

My bro-in-law just got a Z that had been sitting for about 10 years. We removed all the 35 year old hoses and replaced them, but we T'd them all together then plugged them into the filler neck hole and completely removed the vent tank. It cost some $$$ for fittings, I want to say about $60, but was well worth it. The one thing he made sure of is that the steel T that went into the filler neck was cut really short. It's pretty far down in there, but you can only imagine what would happen if you got a spark between the gas pump nozzle and the fitting...

Pulling the tank is pretty easy. You have the fuel sender, 2 wires. The filler nozzle, one clamp. Then you loosen the two straps and disconnect all the other fuel lines as it comes down. It's a 30 minute job to get it out.

[jmortensen]

Your 73 might have the electric pump, but that should be the only difference.

[beandip]

Need to solve gas fume problems on my 73z(especially bad after overfilling tank) and have read numerous suggestions on various sites but can't decide which avenue to take;

1) Replace all the hoses to/from tank. McMaster-Carr has them cheaper then anyone else I have found. I assume I need to fully remove the tank and reinstall, which sounds like a HUGE job based upon negative feedback.

2) Replace the one vent hose on top of the tank and plug all the others at the tank while also removing the small tank behind the filler nozzle. The lone vent hose would be connected to the down spout somehow. Still, I assume I need to remove/reinstall tank. HUGE job.

3) If replacing the hoses, is it advisable to replace the filler hose? This one seems very expensive.

] # 3 yes the filler hose is expensive , however if it is leaking ? replace it. Dont try and cut corners here . # 2 this is definatly an option , be absolutly SURE THE HOSES ARE GALOLINE FUEL HOSE. Not for desiel or water ! Also to do anything with these hoses the tank must be removed there is no way arround it . As it was stated already it is not a big deal. Just wait to do this when the tank is almost empty. I have a electric fuel pump so I mearly disconnected the line at the filter up front and used a length of hose and pumped the fuel in a couple of gas cans and dumped it in my truck and saved 2 gls to restart the car. #2 The vent that is on the upper part of the tank at the back on the bumper side , is the vent line that needs to be connected to the filler neck. The lower one that points to the muffler that is down low , is to be plugged. There is a small line directly above the sending unit at the top of the tank , this one I connected to the air supply line that comes form the front of the engine bay on the driver side . It was the air supply to the evap tank before. The gas cap is not vented , so a air supply is needed so as the fuel is used air is allowed to enter the space, an option otherwise is to drill a small hole in the cap. I don't want to do this for fear of some fuel running down the painted fender when the tank is full or nearly so and making a hard left turn, plus air expansion. Be sure to plug all unused holes in the fender well and the one in back ,below the hatch . I used rubber plugs and silacone and also put a bede of it around the filler neck where it goes through the fender well.

[beandip]

The one thing he made sure of is that the steel T that went into the filler neck was cut really short. It's pretty far down in there, but you can only imagine what would happen if you got a spark between the gas pump nozzle and the fitting...

I don't know what '' T '' you are refering to , but there is no worries of a spark causing any trouble from inside the filler neck. The vapor is too rich for one thing . Any spark that MIGHT cause a problem will need to be around the out side of the filler neck . Just as soon as the pump nozzle touches the metal around the opening where the cap connects , as you insert the nozzle ,that will take care of any static problem. This is how it is designed.

[jmortensen]

I don't know what '' T '' you are refering to , but there is no worries of a spark causing any trouble from inside the filler neck. The vapor is too rich for one thing . Any spark that MIGHT cause a problem will need to be around the out side of the filler neck . Just as soon as the pump nozzle touches the metal around the opening where the cap connects , as you insert the nozzle ,that will take care of any static problem. This is how it is designed.

We put a T in there to connect all the hoses up to the filler. It was a steel T, so he cut it short. Good point about the static electricity, I'm just passing on what we did on his, but apparently we were wrong in that one aspect.

[EScanlon]

Check NAPA for all the hoses. That's where I found all of them in stock and inexpensive as well.

The Filler Hose was about $100 last we knew, maybe NLA now or more $, but if that's what's leaking.....sorry, there's no way around it. As Gary said, don't cheapen out on this piece, you might find one in a boneyard, but then again you might be buying a different headache.

Enrique