Rust proofing my car, should I open this up?

[Corganx33]

Been working on fixing the body of my car. My question is should I open this ventilation area up while I have easy access to it.

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/631840/7

I could cut it open and rust proof inside, welding it back up after. Has anyone done this? and is it really a necessary step or overkill?

Thanks

[Walter Moore]

You know, it never even occured to me to open that frame rail up...

Personally, I am going to leave well enough alone. I don't know how to weld, and that is a pretty significant load-bearing part of the car...

[LanceM]

Looking at the first pic that came up I would say no. That is the fresh air intake to the passengers compartment. Being that air moves through there regularly moisture build up should be miminual along with rust. Never seen a Z rust through there. If you have a long flexable wand you could reach back that far going through the intake where the plastic intake tubes attach and spray in your rust proofing materials.

[jmortensen]

Here is a link to the tool that Lance suggested: http://www.eastwood.com/jump.jsp?itemID=10966&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C372%2C373%2C376&KickerID=40&KICKER Just put the wand in at either end and spray your rust proofer in there. Could even drill a hole in the middle to make sure you get good coverage...

[zman525]

on both my Z's ive had that rot out and need repair.. But i live in Massachusetts so theres why... damn sand and salt

[Corganx33]

I've seen that wand before, had actually planned on using that system to help me undercoat the car. I think thats quite possibly a better solution than cutting it open.

One question though. All the rustproofing systems say to apply to bare metal thats been pretreated ( POR-15 needs an application of metal ready, Rust encapsulator says to wipe it clean with laquer thinner. If i can't do this and just spray onto whats there will it still work well enough ?

I really wasn't looking forward to openning this area up anyway.

Massachussetts huh? I'm moving there in November for a new job outside of Boston.

[zman525]

if ur bringin the Z make sure you do a good job rust proofing it. Thankfully my 280 was made in cali and it came over in 1999 but since then rust has already started, just glad i got to it in time.

[Corganx33]

Of course I'm bringing the Z :-)

I grew up in upstate NY, know all about cars rusting out in a matter of 2-3 years... I'llbe sure to have a garage for the car...

[zman525]

Alright then you know just as well as i do... heh.. Anyways i dont even have a garage i have to perform the resto in my damn driveway and when winter comes im gettin one of those car canopy things. believe me by doing this job in a driveway it makes it a hell of alot harder. :sleepy:

[beandip]

QUOTE :One question though. All the rustproofing systems say to apply to bare metal thats been pretreated ( POR-15 needs an application of metal ready, Rust encapsulator says to wipe it clean with laquer thinner. If i can't do this and just spray onto whats there will it still work well enough ?

I really wasn't looking forward to openning this area up anyway.

IF YOU DONT USE THE MARIENE CLEAN THEN THE METAL READY BEFORE THE POR. Then dont bother using por at all because you cannot cut corners . If the metal is 1. preped properly 2. not ablolutly dry . Unsatasfactory results will be the case. Period. I have not used Rust Bullet or any of the other products my self so I cannot offer any knowledge on them . Por when cured , which is in a matter of just a few hours, is a extreemly hard coating and smooth. I used the hi-gloss black and when applied with a brush , it looks like it was sprayed on. It covers and flows out beautifully and it penetrates into the seams. If fact if you get it into threads plan on taping them out because a bolt will not thread in if you don't. POR uses the moisture in the air to accelerate the cure . They recommend not painting with it on a rainy day because it will cure quickly. It loves your skin also , wear rubber gloves or it will need to wear off if allowed to cure there. Once POR is cured NOTHING will melt it . This is why if you are going to spray a finish coat over it , either shoot the finish while the POR is still tacky , shoot it with Ti-coat primer or allow it to cure and then plan on sanding to give the finish paint ''tooth''. As to why applying to bare metal , when it is applied to a painted surface , it will only adhear as well as the paint under it. Gary

[Corganx33]

Right Beandip.

I'm not worried about looks when it comes to the inside of the front ventillation "chambers" or whatever they are called. I want the rust protection... And if I don't cut it open I can't really do a proper prep job....

[Ed]

Now, you cut it open and rust proof it, then you go to weld it back together your rust proofing paint will burn off where the weld was. So the weld will be the first to rust. Not to mention that cutting up the air intake will compromise the structural integrity of the car.

Take a flashlight and a small mirror, inspect the metal through the chamber. If all is well then leave it alone. Rust proof the outside and be happy.