Aging Man with an Aging Car -- I need help

[wm_e_smith]

Steve,

Since my physical ability is somewhat limited at this time, eventually I will get a repair man down the street from me who is presently overloaded with projects to install the check valve for me .

[wm_e_smith]

Steve,

Would you please comment on this. I thought I had previously mentioned this on this thread but maybe I didn't. When I was replacing the fuel filter a few months ago the gas continued to slowly run out of the disconnected fuel hose. I had no choice except replace the filter with the gas flowing. I was not expecting that to happen. So, when the check valve gets installed, I suppose the gas will continue to run out of the fuel pump. What are your thoughts on this? Why would the gas keep flowing? I've replaced the fuel filter in the past and do not remember this happening.

[sblake01]

I don't think you mentioned that. That would mean that your system is holding fuel pressure which it is supposed to do. But the fuel should spray when you first remove the hose rather than just slowly run out. To prevent this, you jump the cold start valve before you remove any of the fuel hoses. I have a neat little gadget that I made that consists of some wire, a 9 volt battery, an injector connector, and a momentary switch. I remove the connector from the cold start valve and plug my device into it and release the pressure. But it can also be done as shown in this illustration from the FSM.

[wm_e_smith]

Not to sound like a complete idiot, but if I said that the fuel kept flowing from the fuel pump side for an unexpected lengthy time, would your comment still hold? Is there another 'valve' in the fuel pump that maybe allows fuel to flow through towards the fuel rail if defective? At this point, my understanding is that the check value forbids fuel to flow 'backwards' into the pump, maintaining the pressure.

[sblake01]

True, that is what a check valve does when it's working right but if not, the residual pressure has to go somewhere. So it find it's way into the system unregulated by the fuel pressure regulator since that car isn't running. A good check valve basically plugs the system when the engine is off and holds the pressure and the fuel wherever it is in the system.

[280~Master]

Ok Guys How Long Is This Post Going To Last???? Will It Beat Out The Boobs Post Some Day????:laugh:

[Stubby]

I for one have enjoyed this post. I am waiting in the background to help if needed.

As for the boobs? This car can never cause the problems that a pair of boobs can.

[280~Master]

That is good to hear. Boobs are a very important part of the Z's drive train. With out them we are just another import sitting at the line.

I ask about this thread due to the number of posts it has recieved. I would hope that this car has been fixed by now.

P.S. I could not read the whole post due to the other half......

[wm_e_smith]

Ok Guys How Long Is This Post Going To Last???? Will It Beat Out The Boobs Post Some Day????:laugh:

Bear with. You are the 280~Master, I'm not.

[sblake01]

Ok Guys How Long Is This Post Going To Last???? Will It Beat Out The Boobs Post Some Day????:laugh:

Doubtful. The present post count: Boobs-1175, This thread-178

[280~Master]

Wm e smith,

Not trying to hi-jack your thread on your car, so sorry if I offend anyone. I did scan through this thread and took a look at what some advice has been. From what I can tell you have been chasing a fuel problem on the car. It’s hard to say what it is over the internet could be a fuel problem or and electrical problem. I see that when you run it, it will stall on you then start right back up. The question is will it start within 3 seconds or does it have to crank over for 10 seconds before it starts?

I used to have a girlfriend that had one of these and worked on hers along with my 77 280. Here is my take on your car. You should write down some of the reasons that your car might do this and check them off your list as you eliminate each one of them. From what you described in this thread I would start with the fuel. \

1st I would check the fuel lines and make sure they are nice and cleaned out. Blow them out with an air hose and I mean all of them. Start on the return line back to the tank, then blow backwards thru your fuel filter, take the hose off after you check valve and blow that line out, take the hose off the inlet to your fuel pump and blow that back into your tank. Just remember to take off your gas cap when you blow into the gas tank. Will cause pressure build up in take and fuel will squirt back out the hose and in your face.

2nd pull your fuel pump and clean the inlet screen that is inside of the inlet.

3rd go to NAPA and buy 2 foot of ½ inch fuel hose along with an inline fuel filter

NAPA part# NAPA GOLD 3299.

http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPages/NOLMaster.aspx?PageId=470&LineCode=FIL&PartNumber=3299&Description=Fuel+Filter+(Gold) NAPA is the only place I have found that carries this filter in stock. Place this filter between your outlet of the gas tank and the inlet of your fuel pump. This will keep any rust or dirt from entering your fuel pump. Racers use this type of set up for there cars. There filters are bigger and cost 10 times as much as a small inline filter.

Now put all this back together and try and drive the car. See what happens. If your end up with the same results as last time stalls then starts then there are 3 other things that might be causing this.

1. Rust in the tank that has clogged you pick-up line inside of the tank. You have to remember there is a screen at the end of your pick up line (inside of the tank) that may be clogged. Only solution to this is to have a new pick up line placed in your tank.

2. You have a bad Fuel pressure regulator.

3. Bad Fuel pump.

You have to remember you have a car that is almost 30 years old. You live in a spot where there is cold then hot weather. There is condensation inside of every gas tank. Your tank is metal, water and metal does not work or mix well together. Especially Japanese steel.

As far as the fuel pressure regulator it is very possible this is the cause of your problems. There is a rubber diaphragm, a spring and a check valve inside of the regulator. After 26 years or so of freezing, heat and ECT it may have gone bad. I had a 75 280 that was doing the same thing as your 810 was doing. It would run down the road and then just stall. It would start up a ride for a bit and then stall again. I ran a fuel pressure test on it and found out that there was really no fuel pressure to keep the car running. I replaced the regulator and POW it ran better than my 76 280.

I say try this route due to the fact that you have tried the relay thing, the AFM thing, the distributor thing, the wiring of end plugs and I have never seen the temp sensor or thermo time switch stall a car due to them going bad. It will cause the car to spit and sputter or burn too much fuel and oil but never keep it from running.

Good luck and I hope this helps.

[wm_e_smith]

Wm e smith,

Not trying to hi-jack your thread on your car, so sorry if I offend anyone.

This website caught my attention at the onset and I decided it would maybe help me. You didn't offend. The members, other than me, seem to be knowledgable and while I consider their advice, suggestions, my deciphering whether to accept or ignore, I seem to fall into the category of being really dense. Thanks for your suggestions, They will be taken seriously.