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my clock on dont work in my Z!?


BuDavid

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what can cause that sort of thing? i checked the fuses they were all ok, and i also moved them a bit in case of bad contact and nothing..

is it normal that Z clocks stop orking? if the fault is in the clock is it difficult to replace it?

thanks

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ok i got the clock in my hand now, it was a mes finiding that damn screw hiding behind the AC pannel.. i need to check if it is functioning outside the car, how many volts do i need to operate it? 12V?? or the clock needs less? or is there any method to check what is damaged in it.. plz help if anybody knows..

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Typically the problem with the clock is that the motor gets bound tight. I've fixed half a dozen or so simply by taking the clock mechanism out of the case, gently blowing and brushing the dirt and dust off, and then using a very light oil and only a gnat's drop of oil on the motor shaft. If you wanted to you could remove the motor from the mechanism and allow it to run free to ensure that it gets rid of the cobwebs within.

Your car's battery is a NOMINAL 12v, which means that it may actually be producing 13.5 or so.

I calibrated several clocks at 12v using a 12v power supply to keep time within a minute over a period of 3-4 days or so. When I put them into the car I found them to run just a tad fast. They'd gain approx 2 minutes per day. When I checked the voltage that the clock was getting it was 13.5v (and of course any variation when the engine is running). I've decided to live with that rather than remove, recalibrate and replace, but the key thing is that the clock's been running for over a year and a half.

Hope this helps.

Enrique

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i opened it, but it was cleaner than i thaught, no dst at all, and the guy in the service said that the mechanism is good and i have to check the elctronic part that the capacitor or the quartz is bad!? i checked them also and the electrecian said that they are ok and i have to chcek the mechanism :angry:

I'll ask a friend of mine today if he has a clock from a Z, i just dont trust those people who cant trouble shoot at all! :stupid:

coz the motor gave pulse when i put they supply accross the terminals and dei then! what kind of problem could that be? lubrication only??

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I have some questions.

I bought a rebuilt quartz replacement from somebody on this site. The job was very well done and it worked well for some months (I still have my original in my parts bin).

Since three months of its intallation it worked well but my problem is after a couple of days it stops. Now, I change the fuse and works for another day or so and sometime a week.

After its dead.

One day, I went to some maintenance on the car and disconnected the battery. At my surprise, the clock started to work again and went dead a day or so after. I went up to a 15A in the fuse box without solving the problem. Everytime I replace the fuse, it can go for up to some days through a month without problem and goes dead again. These fuses cannot be all bad.

This guy was rebuilding earlier Z units with Mercedes quartz units and was successfull on Ebay and the inner work is very well done. I believe he was trustfull because he offered me to send back the unit for replacement.

Any suggestion to investigate the problem?...........

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Sorry Will, but it IS the clock.

This is one of the funny idiosyncracies of the Z's clock.

The earlier clocks had an actual motor to wind the spring that ran the clock. The motor was in essence always on...and trying to wind the spring. Unfortunately after time and wear fits in, the motor succeeds in winding the spring in such a manner that it gets "locked" or kinked and won't allow the pendulum gear to receive the stored energy in the spring....and the clock dies.

Then you disconnect the power to the motor by removing the fuse...and the motor can shift back just enough to release the tension on the spring. The clock starts back up and runs....for a few days, sometimes longer. During this time the motor acts as it should, re-winding the spring as soon as it unwinds. Then it gets bound up....again, and the cycle begins again.

That's why with your fuse changing and other methods of interrupting power to the motor is why the clock runs....and dies....and runs....

The answer is to open the clock up, give the mechanism a light dust off with air and add that tiny drop of sewing machine oil (or equivalent) to the pivots in immediate contact with the motor. What needs to happen is for that "kink" point to be eliminated by that touch of oil and having had the dust blown off.

I've done this to several clocks, mine has been running for over two years. Beandip's is only now re-connected but last I heard was going on a month or so of continuous running since being re-connected.

FWIW

Enrique

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