Clock Repair: Analog, 70-78 Z (Round)

[EScanlon]

As you look at the back of the clock housing, the wires coming out will be on the right hand side and the adjusting screw hole will be on top.

Note that this is only for the round clock that has the three mounting studs going through the case and then held on with nuts.

E

[240260280z]

I was inspired by Arne's photos so I lubed the mechanical clock. When trying to access the bushing on the back of the motor, I removed the wrong screw under the white loctite stuff and disconnected the two whisker contacts and the insulator that holds them. Long story short, I completely removed the motor, removed the pos and neg contacts, removed the insulator, carefully placed the insulator in place, placed the whiskers back into their sockets (the trick is to keep the whiskers out toward the outer perimeter of the casing as much as possible while inserting until you seat the screw that holds it. This screw and connection fit carefully into the plastic insulator so align carefully). It took me 3 tries to get it right.

[Duffman]

I have always prided myself on following Enrique's earlier directions on how to clean up and lube the clock to make it work, and actually achieving it! Was working fine for a couple of years, then stopped. Went back through this thread today and followed both Enrique's and Arne's suggestions on where to lube, etc, with sewing machine oil. Well, I must have the best oil out there, because once I put everything back together and connected it to power, my clock was spinning like a Disneyland clock; way too fast!!! My minute hand was spinning like it was in seconds! I have no idea what I might have done but am open to suggestions on how to slow it down!

Edited October 21, 2011 by duffman

[EScanlon]

There is a small screw that slows/speeds up the clock mechanism. At a WAG, you may have loosened that one in error.

Look through the back of the case and you should see a round slot with (+ '''''' -) impressed on the metal below the hole. That's the adjustment screw. Sadly, I can't tell you to do 2.5 turns in X direction or something like that. Now you're in the Adjust, wait a period of time and re-adjust until you get the right pattern down.

As a note, when I tried "calibrating" several clocks in my garage with various DC power supplies (all nominally rated to be 12VDC +/- a small amount), I COULD eventually get the clock to run... bang on. Yet, once installed in the car, it would be off. How much... differed by car, differed by amount of use of the car, differed by year, just way too many variables to try to discern a pattern. We even had one situation where one clock was R&R from the same car and had two different rates of maladjustment to actual time. It wasn't from slow to fast or vice versa, but it was something like 7+ to 3+ just by R&R the clock.

I had one that would keep perfect time.... for WEEKS in a row (I think I finally pulled it after 7 weeks), on the 12VDC, but would gain 6 minutes every day in the car. (This is the one that is currently IN the car.) I gave up, and now use the discrepancy as a gauge to determine when the last time I drove the car was; one hour off = 60 minutes = 10 days since I adjusted the clock.

What I'm getting to, is that you could take it in to your shop, plug it into a 12VDC source, or even a spare car battery, but don't expect a chronometer.

HTH

E

[Duffman]

Thanks, Enrique, will try adjusting that screw. My concern is that the clock is running so fast, the minutes are like seconds and time is flying! I am hoping that screw is the one I misadjusted.

Edited October 21, 2011 by duffman

[bartsscooterservice]

I got mine working today with a little effort and wd40:

Video - TinyPic - Free Image Hosting, Photo Sharing & Video Hosting

[St.stephen]

I've got a box of clocks that I am going to go through. Awesome thread!

Edited April 3, 2014 by St.stephen
removing text

[rcb280z]

Let me know if you have a working one for a 77.

BTW, old thread.

Edited April 3, 2014 by rcb280z