Rust in fender

[Arne]

I haven't bought this car yet, thought I'd ask for advice. What can I expect to find under this fender?

[hls30.com]

lots of dirt, some rust and probably a hole-look up into the wheel well and check the firewall and battery area-from the engine compartment as well.

Will

[zman525]

scan the car with a magnet aswell, the more bondo you find the more rust your prone to find under body pannels ( ares where it hasnt been rust treated) Also look at the frame rails and ETC If your new to the Z and areas its prone to rusting post a reply so that way we can tell you exactly what to look for and expect.

[Arne]

Yes, new to Z cars, but not to restorations and rust repair. I've done my research, both here online and also in printed Z-car specific books. So I have a good idea where to look for rust issues.

This car is 300 miles away, so I will have to travel to assess it. Here in the Pacific NW, there's no road salt used, so rust is a little less common than elsewhere. This car looks to have lived in these parts all its life, and the only obvious spots in the pictures I have so far is the two front fenders. But I haven't seen under the battery, or the hatch tray yet. Frame rails and floors are reputed to be solid. (We'll see.)

A couple other pictures...

[agemeansnothing]

The piece of fender that you have a rust hole in you can get a cutting disc for a grinder and grind that piece off and Victoria British sells that piece it's about, $40.00 Also check your frame rails for rust(it's a pain in the arse).

[GunnerRob]

The piece of fender that you have a rust hole in you can get a cutting disc for a grinder and grind that piece off and Victoria British sells that piece it's about, $40.00 Also check your frame rails for rust(it's a pain in the arse).

Do you kiss your Mother with that mouth?

[EScanlon]

When you get under that fender you'll probably find a couple of rat's nests of leaf and needle debris that's decomposing. That's what more than likely caused the rust to be so localized.

Check my gallery and you'll see my solution for this.

It's a simple piece of clear flexible pvc pipe and a 45° rigid pvc elbow attached to the cowl drain.

I'd also ask about the hatch. The side pillar emblem implies that the car is a 70 / early 71, but the hatch is from a later model (no vents).

FWIW

Enrique

[TomoHawk]

From the first picture it looks like you should expect to replact that one drocker panel- at least. You could do yourself a big favor by getting it to a place to ateam clean the bottom, or at least blast out all the dirt underneath to see what really is down there. Maybe you could get the owner to do it & split the cost of that.

[Arne]

I'd also ask about the hatch. The side pillar emblem implies that the car is a 70 / early 71, but the hatch is from a later model (no vents).

Yeah, I noticed that also. Didn't get much response from a previous post on that subject. (http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141159#post141159)

Haven't decided what I'll do about that if I buy the car. Leave it be? Find a series I hatch? Add the series I vents to the existing hatch?

[mlc240z]

Enrique,

where do you dead-end that clear tube. from the pic in your gallery, it looks like it goes to the other side in one continuous piece. did you wait until both fenders were back in place before cutting it?

looks like a great idea, by the way.

thanks,

bart

[EScanlon]

If you were to look directly down the rocker panel seam with the floorpan you'd see about 3/4" past the seam. Then if you looked at the way it was cut, you'd see that it wasn't just a straight cut, but a curve to maximize the venturi effect for drainage. That way what pine needles and leaves you get are literally 'sucked out' as you drive.

E