Posted August 28, 200519 yr comment_136026 1975 280z EFI 4spdOk I lowered the idle back to 800 when it was warm, idles 1300 cold, thats good. Now the bad, it dies now at 800 warm, struggles and dies. Maybe the tach is off? It ran smooth at 1000, never lugged. I am willing to work on this to make it run perfect, but I dont know the engine like i've learned my z32. Any ideas if it isn't a misreading tach, maybe timing issue or vacuum? I am about to do a valve adjustment on it, might that fix it? Any help is helpThanksSleepy-z Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 11, 200519 yr comment_137769 I have the same prob man, plz give info of the solution, coz it might be the same problem, a friend told me that there is a vacume leak in the system, but i couldnt find it, chek the hoses..bye Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137769 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 11, 200519 yr Author comment_137797 I have had no solution, probably going to clean every thing I can take off vacuum related and replace what looks bad at this point. I dont mind having to idle at 1000-1100 for now, runs smooth there, I do hope when I get to the valve adjustment it solves my problems. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137797 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 200519 yr comment_137845 I doubt it's a malfunctioning tach. I'd start with the basics. Might be something simple. Check the condition of your plugs and ignition wires. When did you last give it a good tune up? The last time you changed the cap and rotor, was the cap and rotor the same brand? If not that can create problems causing an incorrect air gap. When was the fuel filter last changed? Maybe it's been to long and junk is bypassing the filter and clogging up the injectors, lines. Seen that a lot. Inspect for vacuum leaks. Our 280Z's won't tolerate the smallest vac. leak and will barely idle with one and yes, checking the timing to make sure it's set correctly is not a dumb idea either. I don't know about you, but I like to check the simple stuff first. :laugh: Best of luck. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137845 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 200519 yr Author comment_137846 Thanks for advise, I did use nissan factory plugs/wires(ngk) but the previous owner did the fuel filter, cap and rotor so that may be the problem, I just need to do a valve adjustment one weekend to see if it runs better at low rpms when warm.Thanks again Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137846 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 200519 yr comment_137847 Don't forget to check EVERYTHING connected to the valve cover for vacuum tightness, including the oil fill cap and valve cover gasket. I know from personal experience that having the oil fill cap off will cause idling problems. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137847 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 13, 200519 yr comment_137994 check the hose that goes from the intake manifold to the valve cover mine was cracked (i jsut fouind this crak tonite) and thats why my car did the same thing. also i would check your o2 sensor and your oil dipstick . my oil dipstick was loose b4 and it cause a similar problem. good luck-clutch Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17070-back-to-my-simple-idle/#findComment-137994 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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