Electrical problems after restoration...?

[jackboxxx]

Without looking at the electrical diagrams in the manual, It couldnt be as simple as

1/2 of his 2 harness fuse block being unplugged or loose could it? I mean its like half his car dosnt work...I had issues with this (one of my harness's came loose) when I removed/reinstalled my console to cut err adapt my car for a 5 speed.

[EScanlon]

ZSaint: If you end up totally flumoxed by this, Beandip and I might be persuaded (read that beer / pizza) to stop by and ops check / help fix.

In the meantime, check the following:

If you installed an electronic dizzy, did you disconnect the resistor for the coil? If so, what did you do with the wires that went to it? Without the tach in the circuit, the car won't start, it will crank over, but not start. You MUST connect that Green / White wire with the Black / White wire to ensure that the tach is still part of the cirtcuit.

Check the Accessory Relay. This is located on the passenger kick panel, and is mounted at the topmost left most (forward most -- closest to the firewall) of the kick panel. This accessory MUST be attached to the frame of the vehicle. I'm not sure if it DOES make a ground since the schematic doesn't show one there, but if it isn't grounded, you end up with problems.

Is the car an automatic? If so, have you checked the interlock switch in the transmission? If that's not connected, you're not going to start....period.

Last thoughts, check that the switch portion of the ignition lock / switch is seated properly onto the back of the lock portion. If the tang exiting the back of the lock doesn't make proper contact with the groove in the switch center, you're not going to make an electrical connection and hence won't start or spin

Last thought: did you apply a strong base paint such as POR or another of the rust encapsulators, or other protective coatings? If so, when you've been mounting the grounds have you chased the threads to ensure good metal contact and therefore electrical?

Let me know about these answers, and also if you want a visit.

Enrique

[xray]

Without looking at the electrical diagrams in the manual, It couldnt be as simple as

1/2 of his 2 harness fuse block being unplugged or loose could it? I mean its like half his car dosnt work...I had issues with this (one of my harness's came loose) when I removed/reinstalled my console to cut err adapt my car for a 5 speed.

That's what I was getting at. I think those connectors look similar on the outside--aren't there like four of them over there? Easy to get them confused/misconnected if you're like me...

ZSaint--Courtesy Nissan sells FSM CD-ROMs, you may want to check that out.

Steve

[dspillman]

Hi Zsaint,

Check fusible link at starter, I had a car stop dead in the road, looked good, but tested bad.

EScanlon said:

"Is the car an automatic? If so, have you checked the interlock switch in the transmission? If that's not connected, you're not going to start....period. "

If the car use to be an automatic, you'll still have to jump wiring for tranny, if you retained auto wiring harness.

david

[ZSaint]

I found out the problem. I got the schemetic out and traced the wires from dash to the connector. I had plugged it into another male connector that is right there in the dash for a perfect connection. BUT, the wires coming out of the connector did not have the same color code as the wires that were supposed to work in the ignition switch. I unplugged this connector and plugged it right onto the back of the switch and BINGO, we have power to every thing. I am guessing this "extra" connector is there for Z's with A/C.

I am sorry for not getting back on the forum for a week. I had my computer in the hospital putting more RAM in it.

Thanks guys for all of your help. All I have now is the power antennae won't work. It did work prior to the resto so I have hooked it back up wrong or a fuse is out or ????????????? Anyone have any ideas on the antennae?

[GunnerRob]

Thanks guys for all of your help. All I have now is the power antennae won't work. It did work prior to the resto so I have hooked it back up wrong or a fuse is out or ????????????? Anyone have any ideas on the antennae?

How's the ground? You just stripped and painted the whole car, so, maybe the antenna's not grounded properly.

[sblake01]

.......... I am guessing this "extra" connector is there for Z's with A/C.........

Doubtful since factory a/c didn't appear until 1974

[EScanlon]

The wiring for the A/C like several other items is part of both Series I and II. Check the schematic and you'll see that the BLUE wire for the radio and antenna is also there for the A/C.

E

[xray]

hey ZSaint!

Thanks for the update. So glad to hear it was as simple as switching one of those four dash harness connector plugs.

Keep it up!

Steve

[kenz240z]

On a similar note, my horns wouldn't work after I re-painted the engine bay in my Z :disappoin . After verifying that all the wiring was indeed good, I figured it must be the relay. So, I pulled the relay out to test it. It is tucked up on the passenger side kick panel with several other relays and the connectors are hard to get to with it in place .

Anyway, after I got the relay out I was able to test it and sure enough, it worked just fine. After a bit of noodle scratching (something I do too much of, as evidenced by the growing bald spot on the back of my head ) I put the relay back.

The relay has 3 connectors: one hot lead, one lead to the horns, and one lead to the horn button on the steering wheel. When the horn button is pressed, it creates a path to ground that triggers the relay, which then connects the hot lead to the horn lead, therby making the horns sound.

The path to ground for the horn button is through the steering column. In my case, it turned out that I hadn't chased the threads where the steering column mounts to the firewall. Once I cut through the paint (primer/base coat/clear coat), the mounting bolts made a good path to ground and my horns worked just fine :knockedou .

If only I had begun the trouble shooting process by chasing those threads... :stupid:

[ZSaint]

Tell me more about this horn ground.... I do not have a ground wire connected to the steering column. I did not have a horn prior to the resto work. (I did not have brake lights either! Drove it all the way from Salinas, CA to Salem, Oregon without a horn, rear view mirror or brake lights. Oh yeah, no license plates, either! Fixed everything but the horn.) Can you tell me the color of the wire, type of connector, etc. for this ground? It must be fairly large because the bolts are 6mm.

[kenz240z]

Hi, ZSaint,

The horn relay on my '73 is mounted up high on the passenger side kick panel, amid several other relays (see attached pix, pardon my crude label!). One pic shows the horn relay surrounded by the other relays, the second pic is a closeup of the horn relay. It has 3 wires: green/black - from horn button on steering wheel, the connector is labeled "S"; green/red - battery, the connector is labeled "B"; and solid green - to horns, the connector is labeled "H". I think the horn relay is mounted on the driver's side kick panel on early 240's.

On the steering column the green/black wire connects to a wiper that rubs against the backside of the steering wheel. When the horn button is pressed, it creates a path to ground through the steering column for this part of the circuit. If the wiper isn't rubbing against the back of the steering wheel the horns won't sound, a common problem.

A DVM set to resistance can be used to verify the wiring, disconnect both ends and connect a lead from the meter to each end. Should be 0 Ohms. Another simple test is to use a jumper to ground the horn button. If you remove the horn pad you will see a black wire screwed to the horn button. Use the jumper to ground the wire to a good frame ground. Normally this is through the steering column. If everything is connected properly and the relay is good this should sound the horns.

When I was troubleshooting my horn problem I measured a couple hundred Ohms with one lead of the DVM touching the center of the steering column and the other lead touching the frame. When I chased the threads for the steering column mounting bolts, the resistance dropped to less than 1 Ohm, and the horns worked.

Hope this helps!