I bought a 72 240z sight unseen (my brother e-mailed me some pictures) a couple of years ago from 500 miles away, I brought it home on a flatbed. The price was right, 600 bucks. I told him that if it looked ok, and the rails, & floorboards were good I wanted it. He told me it had an uncracked dash (which has since cracked) so I bought it. Now im not so sure.

From a previous life I knew it would need some work, quarter panels (which I have purchased) fenders (I have one, need another). Interior etc... its a project, needless to say. It is slowly coming along (way slower than the first one I bought.)

my stalling point is a hole underneath the drivers side fender (bottom by the door where you bolt the fender on from the bottom) is rusted pretty bad. This is on the side of the firewall? not the bottom of the car. The fender is going to the scrap yard if I ever get it off, so and I am not concerned about that. Just the structure of the car. I hope to post pictures here in the coming weeks for clarification.

It is rusted to point that if I try and remove the bolt closest to the door to get the fender off, the piece of the frame or body is going to come with it. Pretty big hole.

Further in, the frame rail and floor board is good, just this area is bad (softball sized hole). Does anybody have experience or even better pictures of repairs to this area?

I know on a unibody frame, everything is important (even the windshield) but is this a repareable area?

The dash alone is worth $600 if it is uncracked. Because of its close proximity to the door, I'd have a pro give it a look if it was me. You may have problems getting your door to fit properly if the repair isn't done right.

Dash is no longer uncracked. the door hinges are not in danger it is the area of the car under the fender (will be covered by a new fender) next to the rocker panel, where the last two bolts for the front fender attach to the car.

You are referring to the front section of the rocker panel itself. I believe you can buy that individual piece for cutting and replacing by welding it in place.

How easy that is depends on how much it has deteriorated inside the rocker panel, as that is one of the main structural members of the car.

Since it is behind (beneath) the fender, you might be able to just cut and patch with a piece of sheet metal. I believe someone has already posted a source for replacement sheet metal, and if so, go check them out. A qualified welder would not have any problem in making this repair.

As far as preventing the re-occurrence of this, check out my gallery and look at the drain hose for the cowl that I installed. It's basically a piece of clear PVC hose with a PVC 45° elbow siliconed and clamped to the original cowl drain tube.

By the way, if the fender is rusted through only at that bottom portion, you CAN buy replacement sheet metal to fix that.

FWIW

Enrique

I'm with ya , brother! I'm there for you! You can do it! Heal, baby, heal! Weld away your blues, my friend!

Hows that for support?

Thanks guys, So Enrique, you are saying the front section of the rocker panel sits inside (berhind) the fender and the fender is bolted to it? Can I easily cut this off a doner body?

I thought about those fender repair panels. I may go that route.

As Enrique said that is the front of the rocker under the fender. I had the same problem only in the rear and bought a panel from Tabco, part # 16740. I have the front half of the rocker replacement panel left which has the fender mounting nuts in it but I'm afraid that it is for the right side

I'd say just cut the bolt heads off with a grinder and go from there, if the rocker is bad you'll be cutting the rest out anyway soon enough. I would go with a new replacement as it is likely that any donor car will have simular problems.

You could ~probably~ cut the front nose of the rocker panel off of a donor car, but it might be easier and cheaper in the long run to just buy the replacement metal.

Here's a picture of the passenger side of my vehicle showing what's underneath the fender. If you look closely you'll see the front part of the rocker panel, just in front of and below the door hinges.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=8912&cat=500&page=3

This next picture shows the driver's side AFTER cleaning, sand-blasting, and the 3 step POR process, and also my modification to the Cowl Drain Hose. This mod will drain the cowl all the way to ground and not into the space behind the fender. That short hose is what undoubtedly caused your fender and rocker panel to rust.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=2601&cat=500&page=2

Here's a link to an outfit that lists the parts you would need:

http://www.rustrepair.com/repair_panels/onlinecat.htm?r=ru&p=sm-datsun

Hope this helps.

Enrique

My Rust bucket was free and i drove her 600 miles home.

http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=16125&cat=500&page=1

You can repair any Rust if you have time, patients and money

Enrique,

I bought quarter panels from Mill Supply a couple of years ago. I assume you are saying I need part number 40. Is this an Inner Rocker, the drawing is kind of funny. I see the part that goes behind the fender but the rest of it is confusing. Did you buy this from them?

Excellent company. Good prices I will buy from them. Thanks.

Number 40 is correct, if you are lucky you will only need the front end of the piece, changing the whole rocker would be rather challenging I would think. The rocker on a Z goes under both the front fender and the rear dogleg and is exposed under the door. A strange piece if you are used to working on older American cars.

As a side note, I usually buy direct from Tabco, and have been waiting 2 months for some parts for my son's truck. I called them today and their phone has been disconnected??? So I called Mill Supply and they had them in stock and they should be here tomorrow! $10 more each but at least I'm getting them

I just got done changing the hole rocket and the floor. A part of my car that I could grab and move with my bare hand.

Now with solid rocker and floor board my dad can jump on the rocker and it doesnt move. He is 278 pounds. Me welding is getting better

Number 40 is correct, if you are lucky you will only need the front end of the piece, changing the whole rocker would be rather challenging I would think. The rocker on a Z goes under both the front fender and the rear dogleg and is exposed under the door. A strange piece if you are used to working on older American cars....

Lance answered it. Their drawing can be confusing if you're not sure of what you're going to get. But Lance's description is 'spot on' as our down under friends would say.

But Lance, that is a strange piece only if you've never worked on a Uni-Body car.

As far as it being a challenge to change the whole rocker panel, it shouldn't be any harder than changing out a floor pan. Different? Yes, since part of the piece is "finish" metal (metal that ends up being part of the "finished" part of the paint job or "viewable" paint job.) But not necessarily any more difficult.

I would recommend that the front part of the rocker panel on the car be removed first, BEFORE you start cutting the new rocker panel. Then with the front open, you should be able to ascess just how bad the rest of the rocker panel is. If the rust on the rocker actually DID begin due to the detritus of the cowl drain providing a wet sponge onto the metal, then the rest of the rocker should be fine. If on the other hand, the rocker panel was also doing a good job of rusting out from the inside out, then I would recommend you remove the WHOLE rocker panel and replace with the new.

To an experienced bodyman, this type of complete panel metal replace is actually LESS complex than a cut and fill repair since there isn't any cutting/patching in the middle of a panel.

FWIW

Enrique