Driveshaft Removal

[mdbrandy]

Don't think you can get a socket onto the driveshaft because it runs so straight the shaft itself is in the way. Much easier to get a socket onto the 1/2 shaft because it is angled so far down and you can turn it until the socket fits on.

OK. Rats. I need to go back to school and read. Yes, you're right. I was talking about the half shafts and the diff side flanges. Rereading the original question, it's about the diff pinion and driveshaft flange. Sorry.

jmortensen is right - the diff pinion flange is a huge pain to get the nuts off of, and no socket will work. 12 mm box end wrench. I use the transmission to lock the drive shaft. Turn until you can reach a nut, put car in gear and swear a lot until the nut comes off. Trans in neutral, turn shaft, car back in gear, swear some more.

I have had three pieces of thin-walled steel pipe in my tool box for many years now, one of which I "squeezed" the end of so that it widened out and can fit over the end of a wrench. So sometimes, for particularly stubborn nuts, I put the box end on the nut, slip the pipe over the open end of the wrench, and now I have a much larger lever arm to work with.

But if you're using the wrong size wrench anyway (1/2" is close to 12mm, but a little large - about 12.7 mm actually), you don't want to put too much torque on there, or you'll just end up rounding off the nut, as mentioned by other posters here.

[MikeW]

For one thing this is a car built with metric parts. If you do not have metric tools , buy some before you screw up and round off the nuts.

No kidding. You can pretty much get by with a 10, 12, 14, and a 17. I seem to recall that some of the manifold nuts are 13 but there really aren't that many different sizes required. I've lately been using the newer ratcheting combination wrenches although I don't have the kinds with swivelling heads.

[Datsun-Fever]

Damn Damn Damn, i keep saying 1/2 wrench but i mean 12mm, i am using a 12mm. Only 1 bolt out still, such a paint in the arse. I'm going to try to find some of that PB blaster...Any more tips for getting these bastards out?

[Curtis240Z]

If you are using combination wrenches you can loop them together. Put the 12mm combination box end on the nut then loop the 13mm combination box end into the claw of the 12mm open end to give you more leverage.

Use a medium sized screwdriver through the universal joint to jam the screwdriver against the driveshaft tunnel to keep the driveshaft from spinning.

[ezzzzzzz]

Steady and slow. Be sure the wrench is seating firmly on the nut. If you round it off you're screwed. This isn't fun but it can be done with patience. Don't use a torch as it will only make things hot, set stuff on fire and ruin the seal. Heat does have it's place but not here. PB rules here for busting rust. A little brake cleaner can help clear the threads as you remove the nuts too. It does go back easier!

[jmanz6]

A small pencil torch will also work. You need to get them red hot, then they will turn right off. They are a PITA. Good luck, don't get in too big a hurry, and don't give up.

[jmanz6]

If you have a torch, even a butane or propane one, heat the bolt and nut up good. That will hel the BP blaster work better. Don't give up and don't get in too big a hurry.

[jmanz6]

disregard my las post, my web browser didn't update, so I though I had not posted...Sorry

[Bill.Oakes]

Not sure if anyone has mention using Kroil before - but the stuff is increadible. I've taken apart two parts cars that were rusted beyond belief. Someone finally talked me into trying it - sprayed it on heavy a couple times, let it sit overnight and 9 times out of 10 it loosened the bolts. The ones that didn't work had to be cut off.

The only problem is you have to order it, can't get it in stores (that I know of) http://www.kanolabs.com/

[peterc]

Just finished replacing the universals on my half shafts, so I know what you're going through.

The only way that I could persuade the b*****ds to come off was by heating them. I used one of those mini oxy/acetelene torches so the heat was hot, yet very precisely aimed.

Without using heat, I'm sure that I'd have ruined the nuts. Good luck.

[Datsun-Fever]

Thanks for the tips guys, i am going to try to heat the nuts off tomorrow, because i still have had no luck. So, im really praying i can use a mini torch....when i get these dirty bastards off, i'm having a party.

Oh, and one more thing, when im replacing the nuts and bolts, do i need to buy the exact type on there right now? i noticed they are a tad strange.

[mdbrandy]

Thanks for the tips guys, i am going to try to heat the nuts off tomorrow, because i still have had no luck. So, im really praying i can use a mini torch....when i get these dirty bastards off, i'm having a party.

Oh, and one more thing, when im replacing the nuts and bolts, do i need to buy the exact type on there right now? i noticed they are a tad strange.

Just be careful with the heat. I just replaced the pinion oil seal on the diff on my 280Z, and it is only a couple inches in down a shaft from the flange that those nuts are on. You DON'T want to melt it.

The bolts are special - the heads are flat on one edge so that they don't rotate on the back as you try to take the nuts off/ put them on. And the nuts have a nice flat built-in washer on them. Probably best to use what is supposed to be there.