I am going to replace the strut cartridges and was wondering what other parts should be replaced such as the strut bearings before I start. The msa book left me at a loss and courtesy dosen't show anything. Also is it easier to go for the bushing kit at the same time to keep from doing things twice like usual?

I am going to replace the strut cartridges and was wondering what other parts should be replaced such as the strut bearings before I start. The msa book left me at a loss and courtesy dosen't show anything. Also is it easier to go for the bushing kit at the same time to keep from doing things twice like usual?

Part of it depends on how far you're going to go. You can replace the strut cartridges without actually removing the strut from the car. if you do that, then replacing the front strut bearings would be reasonable, and not too expensive. You should also be prepared to replace the bump stops at the top seat that keep the strut cartridge from bottoming out on metal at full compression. Past that, if you haven't removed the strut, there isn't too much more to do.

If you remove the strut, then you can get into bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, etc, etc., etc., ....

Pretty simple job. Put car on 4 jackstands. Disconnect sway bars and brake lines and halfshafts in back then you can pull the three nuts from the top of the strut towers and the control arms will pull down. The struts will lean out from under the fenders and you can pull the struts right there. You can use a spring compressor right there then pull the springs. Put the top hat back on the strut and bolt it back in finger tight, then you can break the gland nut loose from the top of the strut housing. Then pull it back out and now you can unscrew the gland nut and pull the struts. Put the new struts in, compress the springs, put the top hat back on, reconnect brake lines and sway bars and that's pretty much it. Bleed the brakes and you're done.

Another trick is get a 2x4 that is the right size so that it pushes the brake pedal 1/2 way down. Stick it in between the seat and the brake pedal before you crack the brake lines loose. This will prevent the system from sucking air and will make your brake bleeding job a lot easier.

I chose to do a complete suspension rebuild on my 240Z. That way I only had to tear the suspension apart once. I removed all of the front & rear suspension parts from the car, including the differential & halfshafts, the steering rack, & the front cross member. The engine, transmission & driveshaft were already out of the car, so it seemed like a good time to do the suspension work.

I cleaned all the parts then primered them and painted them. I installed new Tokico blue struts, Tokico springs, new urethane bushings, new ball joints, and new rear brake pads & hardware (the fronts were in good shape). It took me a few months of cleaning, painting & reassembling, but now the suspension looks great. I have several pics in my gallery taken at various stages of the suspension rebuild.

I have a big, 3 1/2 ton floor jack I bought at NAPA. It was very helpful when lowering the strut assemblies from the car, also great for raising them up when it was time to re-install them. Made it much easier to do the work by myself.

The really easy stuff to replace is the top bearings and the TC rod bushes on the front. I think the inner control arm bushings requires pressing the old bushing out and pressing the new one in, so it's a little harder.

Thought about it for a couple of days . I guess I may as well order the bushing kit and go for it all at once .(Nice job KenZ) I take it off the road in October anyway. Thanks for input.