Posted September 12, 200519 yr comment_137874 It's not on my Z, but the question is still the same as if it was. I have the new perches and threaded sleeves ready to install on my triumph TR7, but I'm not sure exactly where the new steel perch should be welded on. The threaded sleeve is smaller than the nut that holds the strut in place, so the sleeve will have to be on the strut when the nut is done up. How much down the tube should the threaded sleeve sit? If I have it as high as I can, then the sleeve will get in the way when tightening the big strut nut. Also, i don't want to sit it as low as possible because it will hit on the little tab that holds the brake line. I was thinking the strut tube should poke out the end a few mm at least. Who has done this and knows a few things they would care to pass on. Thanks Scott Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17236-question-about-installing-coilovers/ Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 200519 yr comment_137893 I would think your best bet would be to go to a Triumph site and ask these questions! The installation of coilovers is pretty generic however, the positioning of the threaded sleeve on the strut tube is likely different than what we use on the Z's....and depending on wether or not the strut tube has been sectioned, sleeve positioning will vary. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17236-question-about-installing-coilovers/#findComment-137893 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 12, 200519 yr comment_137894 Scott, it is not an easy question to answer.First and foremost you MUST select the ride height you car will sit at. I cut some 4x4 lumber to mock up the ride height and placed them at the front and rear inner pivots of the suspension. Lower the car carefully down onto the "spacers".Next you will need to know the diameter of the tires you will use. Use a floor jack to raise the suspension untill the spindles are 1/2 of the tire diameter from the floor. Cut another wood spacer to hold this dimension, it can sit under ball joint.Install the strut, shock, upper spring seat, lower adjustable seats, camber plates, and BUMP STOPS. DO NOT install springs.Measure the free length of your springs. Find the spring rate from your supplier. Estimate the total weight and f/r percentage of your car (check an old road test in a magazine). If your car weighs 2,000 lbs with 50/50 weight distribution then each corner holds up 500 pounds. If your springs are 250#/in then the free length will be (500#divided by 250#/in) 2 inches shorter.If the free length of these springs are 10" the length at ride height will be 8". Tape the lower spring perch to the strut 8" from the upper spring seat.Contact your spring supplier to get the "STACK HEIGHT" of your spring. This is the lenght of the spring when the coils touch each other and the spring rate goes infineate. The difference from the stack height to the 8" ride height of your spring is the MAXIMUM amount the suspension can move upward from the static ride height.It is VERY important that your bump stops contact BEFORE this happens. Cut another piece of wood 1" less than the spring stack height minus the spring ride height. When this piece is added on top of the piece under the ball joint your bump stops should be starting to compress.Adjust your lower spring seats up or down, and cut new spacer to sit on top of ball joint spacer untill you have gotten things where they belong.Also remember that at full droop it is best if spring maintains (this would be at the free length of spring, 10" in this example) contact with the upper and lower spring seat.When you are happy that you have enough adjustment range (equal amount up and down) on the lower spring seat then measure from end of strut to beginning of adjustable collar and have them welded there. This is how I did mine (I had to because I was changing the ride height and adding much taller tires and many other new pieces). Sounds like a lot of work, but how much work is it to start all over, and how much money can it waste?).PanchoEDIT: It is very common to find that you need a longer spring of the same rate. Now is the time to find out!EDIT #2: It is also common to find that you may need to re-think your intended ride height because of lack of travel in your shocks (or to have to section the struts for shorter shocks). All good resons to mock it up. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17236-question-about-installing-coilovers/#findComment-137894 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 13, 200519 yr Author comment_137967 Thanks Pancho. I don't have the springs for it yet, as I was going to see what length I needed first. I haven't settled on ride height, tyre size or rim width yet either.So far I'm yet to find a Triumph site that comes close to this site or Hybridz as far as info goes. I'm yet to find another company that will sell me a coilover set-up for a triumph TR7. It isn't really the kind of thing most owners do.I know a few people have installed GC coilovers on their Z's and figured that the same information would apply as there is a steel perch that needs to be welded to the strut tube for the threaded sleeves to sit on. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17236-question-about-installing-coilovers/#findComment-137967 Share on other sites More sharing options...
September 13, 200519 yr Author comment_137972 Just found out what length springs I need from the manufacturer, then rand kingsprings Luckily the kingsprings website has free length and stacked height for all the coilover springs they sell. Unfortunately all the front end of my car is apart, so I will have to re-install some pieces to mock it all up. Small price to pay. At least I know which direction I'm heading now. Thanks. Link to comment https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/17236-question-about-installing-coilovers/#findComment-137972 Share on other sites More sharing options...
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