It looks like the link in the first post goes to a universal door/trunk/hatch seal, while the part number you give goes to Push On Weatherstrip. Which is right? I might as well order this while I get some new weatherstripping for my pickup. Also do you have the channel felt PN? Thanks, Gary,

Gary D.

Okay, Ed used the universal door/trunk/hatch seal and it seemed to work alright ("not 100% percent happy"), but beandip posted a different part number for a Push On Weatherstrip. Did anyone try the Push On type, and if so how well did it work? I can't tell the difference between the two looking at JC Whitney's web site, but there's a significant price difference. I'm wondering if the Push On type is a little softer and would work a little better. In the initial post of this thread Ed was questioning whether or not the weatherstip he provided the link for was the "correct one". Maybe the people at the convention he was at were talking about the Push On type?

Okay, Ed used the universal door/trunk/hatch seal and it seemed to work alright ("not 100% percent happy"), but beandip posted a different part number for a Push On Weatherstrip. Did anyone try the Push On type, and if so how well did it work? I can't tell the difference between the two looking at JC Whitney's web site, but there's a significant price difference. I'm wondering if the Push On type is a little softer and would work a little better. In the initial post of this thread Ed was questioning whether or not the weatherstip he provided the link for was the "correct one". Maybe the people at the convention he was at were talking about the Push On type?

Bartman:

One may be named "push-on" and the other, not However, they both DO "push on" to the pinch weld of the car.

Second, Even though the designs of the two are slightly different, I submit to you that the price differential is largely due the fact that one p/n is for a pkg containing a 13.5 ft length of seal, and the other is for a pkg containing 25.0 ft of seal.

FWIW, I know of a guy who successfully used JC Whitney # 13SB2561U weatherseal on his 240Z

Soooooooo....a little more fuel to the fire

OK, so I just dumped a ton o cash on MSA and VB replacement parts, some of which went to the weatherstripping department. Unlike Goose 52, I am choosing to retain the original welting and went with the "genuine" door weatherstrip, MSA part# 76802-E41 and 76801-E41. Pricing is around $64 a side. These options are listed currently on their website and not in the current catalog...

First reaction out of the box was "&^%@#$@*, it's Precision!" But then I unwrapped it, and the door seal was--soft! It compressed easily. I took it down to my garage and compared it to the original 35-year strip I had saved when removing the old stuff: same profile, same softness! I temporarily installed one--it fit nearly perfectly along the paint line (car had been repainted red from original yellow), and the welting fit over it perfectly!

Feeling like reminiscing over my days in gross anatomy and surgical pathology, I did some comparison pictures, submitted below...Now, of course ihave not installed it and closed the door, so this is not definitive--but it looks pretty dang close to me!

Steve

Yep - I had 5 different types of seals all laid out on the counter at MSA and the "genuine" 2-pc seals were indeed softer than the Precision 2-pc. I went with the 1-pc (attached welting) as that was what was on the car and I knew that they had worked before. I guess I must have had the seals replaced back in 1987 during the repaint after all - at that time the 280z-type 1-pc must have been installed. After all the changes I've made to the car over nearly 34 years, I wasn't concerned about originality - just what would work.

Like you say, the proof of the pudding is when you try to close the door. I'm sure all the folks that are on-the-fence about which to buy will be interested in hearing how the "genuines" work in your car - make sure you report back when you get them installed!

So when I ordered the "genuine" door frame seals from MSA the other day I only got the driver's side--passenger's side was on backorder. It shipped on Monday and arrived today--in a Nissan bag! I thought these were NLA, but lo and behold, there it was! Had the correct part number on it and everything. I firmly believe these are the correct seals to order. Here's the pics, with compression...

Steve

OK - that's the first step ... when do you try an install !

Hey Xray, nice comparison.

You can clearly see the difference in the construction of the different seals. The Precision two piece looks denser than the OEM.

After slamming my door for several months with the JC whitney seals I went with the Precision 1 piece (with attached welting $69.95 from MSA) the door closes much easier now. I even had to adjust the window frame to seal better.

So my vote is that the Precision two piece is the thickest. Then followed by the JC Whitney one piece and last the Precision one piece. I'm not sure where the OEM falls in.

I just got the JC whitney door seals that Ed posted about.

At first they made the door very hard to close. I had to slam it shut every time, but my dad suggested that the seals were getting "bunched up" in the door jamb every time it closed. So, I used some spray-on tire shine stuff and rubbed down the door seal. It now closes almost as good as it did with no weatherstrpping.

This stuff should work good when I get out on the road!

Sorry to drag this up, but wanted to demonstrate on the car how the two seals I mentioned previously compare side-by-side.

So..passenger side is Nissan OEM, driver's side is MSA/Precision "genuine" seal. Both were used with re-mounting the OEM welting. Both went on easily, no problems. You could probably tell how this ends up by looking at post #41...the MSA seal is just a little denser, and the outside flange doesn't have the same arc as the Nisdsan one does.

Nissan seal allowed door to close flush with no effort (aside from a little door adjustment.)

MSA "genuine" seal fit almost as well, but left some gappage at the rear bottom. Should compress enough over time.

My conclusion is this:

Balance your desire for door slamming and improper closure against your bank account, and buy accordingly. Nissan OEM is more expensive but worth it since the door seals and shuts correctly the first time.

Steve

The precision seal didn't work on my 2/71Z. Can't remember when they made the quarter panel/door a bit different.

Precision works very well in my 73. Got them from Ebay.

Precision works very well in my 73. Got them from Ebay.

Yeah, I think there was a change in the Q/P or door at some point. Think I remember it being discussed previously as has the entire seal issue. I did like the precision part. Too bad it won't work for me:(

My precision seal took quite a slamming to close the door and once closed I was hardly able to open it. Door was adjusted right and flush with both panels.

Jim

HLS30 23654

Jim