JC Whitney door seals

[justinr54321]

A lot of good info in this thread, now its making me think of what I should go with my 2.1972 240z. I do need an entire kit though, so I just might go with the MSA precision kit. Any other suggestions?

[Zs-ondabrain]

figure it this way Justin, $250 for the full kit, $12 for the tube of sealent, $20? for shipping totals out at about $285.

Compare that with the man hours of repairing all the rust damage because the last owner did'nt replace the weatherstripping all the way around.

It looks like next Saturday may be the day for all the cutting and welding of your battery tray, dog legs and lower door areas and the floor holes. My 9 year old turns 10 on the 11th but her party is on the 12th. I think I have aproval from the wife to work on yer Z that day.

Dave.

[barth4567]

Sorry to drag this up, but wanted to demonstrate on the car how the two seals I mentioned previously compare side-by-side.

So..passenger side is Nissan OEM, driver's side is MSA/Precision "genuine" seal. Both were used with re-mounting the OEM welting. Both went on easily, no problems. You could probably tell how this ends up by looking at post #41...the MSA seal is just a little denser, and the outside flange doesn't have the same arc as the Nisdsan one does.

Nissan seal allowed door to close flush with no effort (aside from a little door adjustment.)

MSA "genuine" seal fit almost as well, but left some gappage at the rear bottom. Should compress enough over time.

My conclusion is this:

Balance your desire for door slamming and improper closure against your bank account, and buy accordingly. Nissan OEM is more expensive but worth it since the door seals and shuts correctly the first time.

Steve

I wanted to add what I found out with my car. I got the door seals about a year ago from nissan. OEM one piece. Also got new OEM inner welting as well, one piece. I put the drivers side seal and welting and it would not close at all. I took the new inner welting out and it closed. Later on I took some old inner welting out of another wrecked car and installed it. It appeared to be smaller and a bit thinner to me. Anyway the door closed but still left a very slight gap. Still have the new inner welting. I finally got around to putting the passenger side in. OEM Part # 76801-E4100. I really took my time on this side and the only problem I had was that in the upper rear angled area where piece was ( glued together ) corner it just would not fit quite right. I took my razor knife and cut the seal where it was glued together.( two pieces) put it in and and down along the back side toward the front. Took the second half and slightly trimmed the end/angle just a little. It fit very well.Glued it in and it fit perfect,door closed easily.Replaced the inner welting with the old one( it was in good shape) and put the trim piece back in along the bottom. The door closes easily and the only difference I notice is it pops open a little harder. To be expected until the seal relaxes a little. Door aligns well also. I am going to have to recheck the drivers side again as it still does not fit quite right. However one difference that I do know is that there was some body work done by the previous owner in the door area and maybe it is not aligned just right. Long story short. This thread and the excellent advice and opinions given on it helped me greatly and just wanted to say thanks,and perhaps contribute something back in a small way. John:classic: