i want to maximize gas mileage and power, and essentially get it running as efficiently as an early 240z. (yes, i realize it's heavier, but that aside..) (i'm smog exempt in southern CA, so i can remove/change/strip.)

aside from changing the flat-top "boat anchor" SUs to early round-top SUs,

what else do i need to do, specifically with regard to emissions controls, to get it running like a 70 or 71 240Z?

(i'm smog exempt in southern CA, so i can remove/change/strip.)

Carefull with that axe Eugene.....

You are exempt from manditory annual inspection. Removing or defeating smog devices is still unlawfull and prohibts your car from operation.

But......

99 percent of the smog air pumps out there no longer work and actually hurts your cars performance which increases your pollution emmisions. So, That's where most start in their engine clean-up efforts.

Keep the vapor stuff and the PCV, no harm in those. Getting a dizzy with a lower intial timming doesn't hurt and helps.

SUs

air pump

anything else? or am i getting there?

Vapor system diagram

http://www.datsun510.com/photopost/data/500/149DSCN1404.JPG

cool. thanks.

so you'r saying keep the vapor stuf/PCV.

but you kinda lost me on this:

"Getting a dizzy with a lower intial timming doesn't hurt and helps." ??

i studied your diagram and it makes sense to me that the PCV and vapor system would only help fuel efficiency and not really hinder engine performance

is this true? or does it hinder performance? if so how much?

does this system cause the dreaded vapor lock i keep hearing about?

Vapor lock is typically caused by the high underhood temperatures that the lean mixture of the flat-tops create.

PCV and vapor systems have no measurable effect on performance or driveability.

The term "dizzy" is short for distributor. There are gains to be had by using a dizzy with a different advance curve.

ahhhhh... it's all like a big relevation of bright light! haha thanks!

any tips on picking out the right distributor?