I got a new timing chain for my 280z, but am having problems with getting it on. I have the silver links lined up with the timing marks but I want to make sure it is right. Also do I use gasket material on the head gasket or no. I have to take the cylinder head back off because I torqued it down before I put the timing cover on so now I have to get a new head gasket.

I didn't think that you had to have the head off to put on the front cover, if you use any type of sealent on the head gasket use a spray type like copper coat. Unless a sealer is specified usually head gaskets go on dry.

I didn't think that you had to have the head off to put on the front cover, if you use any type of sealent on the head gasket use a spray type like copper coat. Unless a sealer is specified usually head gaskets go on dry.

True. You don't need to take the head off. I always put my headgaskets on dry.

I have a nasty tendency to get a little leak around the corners of the cover where the cover meets the head gasket and oil pan gasket. Put a dab of silicone in those corners that is big enough to seal after the cover gets in place. I think my problem is I don't put enough on and it doesn't smush enough to seal. Then you have to take the cover back off to get the damn thing sealed, and that is a PITA.

Also you should loosen the top bolt for the curved chain guide to help get the sprocket on the cam. Once it's on then you can move the guide to where it needs to be and tighten it down.

I used the copper spray stuff for sealant on the head gasket. The timing cover it will not go on the dowels when I try to put it on. In the book it says to only put the two center head bolts on finger tight gefore putting the chain on and then put the timing cover on, then torque the head bolts down. But you guys have put the cover on with the head already torqued down?

Yep. One thing you can do is cut the front of the oil pan gasket off. Use silicone there instead. Again, biggest risk is that you might get a leak in the corners.

I thought it was a bad idea to use silicone for engine use, as it is degraded by the oil and you can end up with bits of sealant inside the oil system? Only use RTV sealant, which is what is recommended when sealing in the rear mains to the block.

Cheers

Ian

RIP260Z,

Here stateside RTV and silicone are terms that are used interchangeably when it comes to engine assembly sealant, though perhaps not correctly

Hmm. Learn something new every day...

I too have installed the front cover after the head has been torqued. You do have to loosten the oil pan to get it on there.

The only bad thing I've heard about using silicone is when you use too much. It gets squashed out on the inside as much as the outside. Then over time it breaks loose and gets stuck in the oil passages.

RTV = Room Temperature Vulcanizing. Some tubes of silicone in the hardware/auto stores have it on the label and some don't. I've used both and they "seem" to be the same product going by look and smell. (even though that's not the best way to tell if they are the same).

I wouldn't use it (either) on an engine. There are too many good products made specific for engines to take a chance.

What kinds of sealant should I use. I have this one can of purple sealant that has a brush to spread it on really messy but great stuff. I went ahead and took the head back off and got a new gasket to do it right. I have another question about the fuel injection, I am buying an after market pressure regulator and fuel gauge. It is adjustable from 20-85 psi but I am wondering what the fuel pressure is at stock psi.

I use Permatex Ultra Grey. On exhaust manifold gaskets I use the Ultra Copper. Both work fine.