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Finally got it


dave3

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After 14 years of trying to pry my grandfathers 71 240z out of his hands, he has finally given in. He has had it since 1980 and my father got it for him from a family friend who was the original owner. As far as I know everyting but the wheels are original, and they have been on the car since new. The last time I looked at it, I could find no rust, except for some bubbling paint below the door.

The car has been garaged and only summer driven (little RWD sports cars are not too good on Eastern Idaho roads in the winter). Unfortunatly, he has not driven it in 3 years and it is just sitting in his shop. When I get an opportunity I am going to trailer it to my house in California (Central Valley). I guess my first question is how to start this thing properly after sitting for the last few years. Everything was in working order when it was parked, but I'm sure he took no precations when storing it. I will know more when I get an opportunity to pick it up.

This site looks like a great resource. Thanks, Dave

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Here's what I would do. Make sure it has a good battery. Change the oil. Check the coolant & top off if necessary. Check the condition of the distributor cap, rotor, points, plug wires, & plugs. Check all hoses & belts Replace anything that looks questionable.

Before trying to start the engine, pull all the plugs. Squirt a fair amount of WD-40 in each cylinder. Pull the coil wire. Disconnect the fuel lines from the carbs and put a catch can under each. Turn the key and see if the engine will turn over, and also check to see that fuel is flowing from the disconnected carb lines.

If everything looks good so far, then put the plugs back in and re-connect the carb fuel lines. Before re-connecting the coil wire, run it up to one of the mounting bolts for the left front strut. Put it close, leave a gap. Turn the key and verify that you see a spark jump the gap. If you see a spark, hook it back up to the distributor.

Now, the engine should be able to turn over, you've got fuel flowing to the carbs, and you've got spark going to the plugs. Turn the key and see if it will start. It should at least try to start, it may take a moment if there is no fuel in the carb float bowls.

If it starts, then be sure to change the oil before running the car for any extended period of time. The WD-40 you sprayed in the cylinders can thin the oil out a bit, best not to take chances.

If it doesn't start, then you'll have to do a little trouble shooting to find out what is out of order. Could be the timing is off, the valves could need adjustment, the carbs, could be gummed up from sitting, the choke cable from choke lever in the car to the carbs could be out of adjustment, etc.... You'll want to check these things anyway once you get it running. Also, you should drain & refill the coolant.

Hope this helps!

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Dave III , Welcome to the club and yes this is the place. Congrats on the Z . As to the start up, I recommend that first thing to drain the gas tank and to flush it with a little new fuel , just a qt. or so. Disconnect the fuel line at the tank and at the fuel filter up front and blow out the line with compressed air . Replace the fuel filter and reconnect the fuel line . Drain the oil and change the filter before turning the engine over. Drain the coolent and replace with plain water for now. Flush the brake fluid and clutch fluid . Take a vary hard look at the rubber brake lines at each wheel . If these are origional , DONT MESS WITH THEM , REPLACE THEM ALL. Remove the spark plugs and squirt some oil in each plug hole , ATF or marvel mistery oil is good for this . With the plugs out see if you can turn the engine over with a socket wrench on the crank pully. If you can then turn her over a few revolutions to spread the oil around and lube the cylinders. Then with a new battery try and start her up . WATCH CAREFULLY THE OVER FLOWS on the carbs , disconnect the hoses from the top of the float bowls so you can see if they start to over flow due to a stuck float in the carb . Watch this while you are starting the engine and while she is running for the first few min. Pay close attention to the temp gage once she fires up , just in case the thermostat might be stuck closed , common thing. As an aide I use a little starter fluid in the inlet to the air cleaner to help ignite the oil / gas mixture at first. Remember these carb have no accelerater pump so pumping on the gas peddle will not help . Use the choke lever to start and keep her running at first. Hold the RPMs down around 1500 to 2K for a while so that the oil can travel all through the engine. Also what I do is , I use a large sringe and I put in the float bowl about a tablespoon or so , of gas . An old turkey baster will work fine for this . This will help at first start up and will get her going a little untill the fuel pump can supply the carbs. All the best to you and keep us informed on your progress. The brake stuff can wait untill you get her running , but do it BERORE driving . Gary :laugh:

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Since it has been sitting that long first I would drain what ever fuel is in the tank and put in 5 gallons of new gas, then go with what Kenny said. No need trying to start on old fuel and what ever crap is in the lines, the new gas will flush while you crank into the catch cans and when you start up you will be running on new gas not old crap!

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Thanks for the suggestions, now I have to find the time to go pick it up. Hopefully, I will have a nice driver without too much work. I needed a project over the winter. The last time I drove that car I was 16, but that is all it took. I have wanted one ever since but was holding out for this car, I am glad I waited. BTW, I think the only reason why he has kept is that my grandmother hates it. There is still a vanity plate on it that says "Happiness is being single" and they have been married over 50 years.

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