I'm probably going to make a purchase tomorrow unless someone

tells me that these injectors are bad. However, here are the

specs of the fuel injectors for my '75.

Aechlin (ecklin?) Fuel Injectors

by Dana Corporation

They are around $75 each at my local Napa shop. Courtesy will

sell original injectors to me for around $100 ea.

This is something I don't want to skimp. Someone told me that

the OEM FI's are Bosch.

What do you guys think?

Thanks for the reply guys...

No, I didn't replace the cold start injector because I didn't have any idea about it at the time of my order. I better get down to Napa today while they are holding the 25% off sale over the Memorial Day weekend and purchase one. I am completely happy with the new injectors that they sold me. I suspect that they are OEM (at least OEM from '75).

And, Steve, I'll check that electrical connection, thanks.

I was also running the 'pull each plug wire to see if the engine gets rough' test and noticed that electrical current escapes from the plug wires (owch!!). That's my little test to make sure each plug is firing as they should. Anyway, I got shocked a few times. The plug wires definitely need to be replaced.

The hammer is rubber.

Bill Gates, eh? I don't think Bill would work on his own car. In fact, I don't think Bill even did ANY of his own work during his entire career. Go figure. The richest man in the world doesn't do his own work. Maybe we should all take a look at that and ponder.

Hell no, I *LOVE* working on Z's. Between the MSA show, this site, all of my new Z friends, and working on this car for the past few weeks.... my Z bug is back.

Except, maybe now I like EFI even better than carbs. Oops.. nobody heard me say that.

[m]

Just put you 'best' old injector in the CS.

I think VB has the best deal on plug wires. 8.5 mm by Crane for $30-something a set. With the wires I would definitely put a new cap and rotor on...and please don't tell me you have the original coil on! When yu finish geting the ignition and EFI all spruced up, take it to a professional (hopefully a Z person) and have him do some good diagnostics to get everything ticking together. you won't believe how well it will run then!

Oh, this will start an argument for sure, but if you have some of those $10 Champion spitfire-crossfire-platinum-titanium-four-way super-resistor-rocket-science-unbelievably-super-duper-high-performance-gauranteed to blow your mind-spark plugs in there, YANK THEM OUT and put the NGK's back in. NGK BPR6ES or the cooler range BPR7ES (NAPA# 2023?)

And while you're at NAPA, get a 1773 oil filter and add an extra quart to your system.

GAWD, I love NAPA.

steve77

"She can sometimes idle rough, so, I'm looking into that. "

Vacuum leaks, vacuum leaks, VACUUM LEAKS. Check everythig and then check it again and again. Dipstick tight? PVC operational? cracks in hoses: PCV hose? The hose from the valve cover vent to the tee at the AR takes a beating and must be oil-proof hose. Vac lines to EGR and TB. Boot from AFM to TB must be perfect. I saw your A/c, so there a couple of long ones that go around to the passenger side from the intake. ANY leaks ANYWHERE will affect idle.

steve77

Originally posted by Zvoiture

Just put you 'best' old injector in the CS.

I think VB has the best deal on plug wires. 8.5 mm by Crane for $30-something a set. With the wires I would definitely put a new cap and rotor on...and please don't tell me you have the original coil on! When yu finish geting the ignition and EFI all spruced up, take it to a professional (hopefully a Z person) and have him do some good diagnostics to get everything ticking together. you won't believe how well it will run then!

The cold start injector looks totally different than the others. It's shorter and smaller. Will one of the other injectors fit in there?

Ya, this car still has the original coil and plug wires!! That's my next replacement (aside from the braking system).

[m]

Well, damnit.... the engine is dead.

I came home tonight with a grin on my face because I wanted to jump in the 280z and crank her over.

Much to my surprise.... the first crank resulted in some pretty bad metal smashing sounds.

$^!#

I cranked a few more times... still metal smashing/grinding sounds emitting from the engine compartment.

I immediately removed the valve cover and looked to make sure everything was ok. Yep. Nothing seems out of place.

Pulled the plugs and looked inside the cylinders. I can't see much in there, but, everything appears normal.

Cranked it again... more metal smashing/grinding. When it cranks... the noise is a loud bang every few turns of the starter.... hmmmm

I wonder if the valves are sticking open and maybe the piston is hitting them. Dunno for sure.

I'm pissed. I had such a good day yesterday and got a lot done. Why did it all come crashing down today?

(sigh)

Hmm, this doesn't sound so good.:mad:

Try this, pull the plugs and turn it over. Still making noise? Try turning it over by hand. I'm just grasping at straws here, but it might be the starter. Either it isn't engaging the flywheel completely or the flywheel is losing teeth. It will make an awful racket it it is skipping on the teeth, hard to tell without hearing it, but keep yer fingers crossed, maybe it won't be so bad after all.

If you had it running before without any funny noises this would be my first guess. We'll keep our fingers crossed:rolleyes:

Hmmm... good idea. Maybe, since I had to crank the hell out of the starter, it decided to break up.

I'll pull it out tomorrow night. Thanks for the idea. Now, I'm off to play Jedi Knight II. See ya!!

Originally posted by Zvoiture

Just put you 'best' old injector in the CS.

Steve, I don't think that will work. I looked at the cold start injector and it has a side-inlet. The injector is totally different. They might have changed it for later model cars. (shrug)

Originally posted by 2ManyZs

Hmm, this doesn't sound so good.:mad:

Bad news Keith... cylinders 6 and 2 have ZERO compression. The engine is toast. I'm soo pissed. Oh well, at least the price was right on the car (donated to me).

I'm looking at rebuilt engines right now. I don't think I want to rebuild this one myself. I don't have the tools or the knowledge to do it.

Well, that isn't good at all. Must have had a bad timing chain or tensioner and when you started it up it jumped the cam timing.

If it is the valves being bent, you should be able to just get a rebuilt head or rebuild the one you have and I'd definately do a timing chain while you are at it. Of course if it has damaged the pistons, well, we know the rest of the story.

In answering your other post, I ran an ATK crate long block in my 75 for a couple years on the street, then raced the car from 89-84 with absolutely no problems with the motor. IMO the ATK crate engine would be an excellent motor for a street car. They do quality work and the motors themselves are not too expensive. You might try to go to them directly instead of buying one from MSA, you might be able to save a few bucks.

I pulled the valve cover and everything seems to be fine. That's why I don't get it. I'm thinking maybe the valves are sticking in the open position. When the cylinder comes up, it smacks the valve and it closes.

Nothing prevents the engine from cranking over. The chain is rotating fine as well. I dunno... I'll dig into it tonight.

Mike, sounds like you may get your hands dirty on this one.

One possibility is that it dropped the valve seats, or maybe they were hardly there before. Another possibility is the valve guides have dropped or the valves have siezed in them. If the valves have hit the piston and bent there has to be a reason for it, that is what I'm wondering about. Guess the only way to find out is to get your helper and yank the head off to find out what has really happened. BTW, don't forget to use the block on the cam chain or you'll end up pulling the front cover too.