Treating inside/outside of gas tank with POR15 products and removing evaporation tank

[Jackhammer]

Dave...I meant to "thank you" a couple of months ago when you first posted this "How to".So "Great Job". I am quite familiar with the application of the POR 15 products as I have done my Z inside and out with it(pics in my gallery). An experience not soon forgotten I might add.

The issue I have with my tank is how to fix some fairly sizable dents in the tank. Any ideas or experience on the repair of those first before using POR 15? I can have it repaired by a shop for $300.00 -$400.00 (boiled.dents fixed and painted). So that is an option. One I would prefer not doing if I could fix the dents... then use POR 15 to finish.

Thanks

[mlc240z]

GREAT JOB, Dave!!

looks bulletproof!

Thanks for adding a totally complete how-to for all of us.

[dogma420]

Thanks mlc.

Jackhammer--a reputable radiator shop should be able to seperate each half of your tank and seal it back up. While it was seperated, I'd probably just pound out the dents myself--nothing too fancy, unless you are looking for a perfect looking tank, then maybe inquire about the fixes at the shop or maybe an autobody shop? not sure.

[dhoneycutt]

dogma240 thanks for a great write up. I may go this route a little later after reading how it went. I only have one question/comment. I had heard that using copper for anything to do with fuel system was a bad idea due to some sort of chemical reaction when gas goes through it (such as when it is fully filled and then driven)? I may be mistaken, it was just something I read about when replacing the vent hoses.

[Cruez]

That is one complete write up !! Thanks for putting in the effort to put it all down. I know it takes quite a bit of time to write it all down and take all the pics. Nice job !

[ncz]

Hey Jack, know anyone with one of those stud welders, you might be able to pull some of those dents out and not have to have the tank cut

[Jackhammer]

You know Tom ...I think you have something there. I have used one of those before. I am going to get a hold of my body shop buddy and see what he thinks. Thanks Tom!

[beandip]

I have used the copper used in this article also. It is not recommended to use copper for fuel line or for brake lines . But in this case it is the 1/4'' line. These will fail due to vibration , and bursting due pressure as well for brake line. In this use connected on each by rubber , and being 1/2'' in size , so vibration is not a issue . Copper is not effected by Gasoline . This is about the only place I would use copper . Gary

[dogma420]

yeah, what Gary said!

My Dad is a retired plumber of 45 years experience...mainly dealing with welding copper in commerical buildings, doing all plumbing in copper...he knows his copper.

He says that copper has no effect on gasoline in a low pressure situation. None whatsoever. He's used copper in various types of situations as I did with my Zed over the years, just never on a Zed...more like a 55 Plymouth or Mercury.

[dhoneycutt]

yeah, what Gary said!

My Dad is a retired plumber of 45 years experience...mainly dealing with welding copper in commerical buildings, doing all plumbing in copper...he knows his copper.

He says that copper has no effect on gasoline in a low pressure situation. None whatsoever. He's used copper in various types of situations as I did with my Zed over the years, just never on a Zed...more like a 55 Plymouth or Mercury.

Guys, I didn't mean any offense by my last post, It was something I had read and I just wanted some clarification on it which you gave me. Thanks. What you did on the 180 bend is a whole lot easier than trying to bend something else to fit inside the hose or even using a spring as I did to keep the hose from kinking.

[dogma420]

No problem, no offense taken. The idea of the copper 180 bender can be attributed to Beandip. I probably never would've of thought of it.

[dogma420]

Just wanted to give everyone an update on how my 240 is running, being that the tank was sealed up over a year ago.

The case is closed. This tech how to article IMO is a 100% success.

I have put 10,000 miles on her since the tank was pulled and the work done. When I did the work on the tank, I replaced the stock fuel filter up next to the mechanical fuel pump--I replaced it with one of those clear see-through ones I bought at NAPA. The filter is still crystal clear, and I have had zero issues in regards to the gas tank sealing job.

I think we can safely say that the procedures I used to seal up my 240z gas tank would be recommended, and a safe long-term fix to a big-time problem--a rusty 240z gas tank.

I would recommend POR15 as an excellent solution to dealing with rust issues on our S30s and any other issue regarding metal and rust.

The price is very reasonable as well. Total project if I recall ran about $150 total (that's a higher end quote, it was probably less) with about 15 total man hours done rather slow, over the course of 2 full weekends, in the middle of the Summer at temperatures of high 80 degrees, low of 55-60 degrees. (I think temperature helps with curing is why I state this--it's better if the temperature is a little higher than the middle of Winter.)

Also, the time taken I list above EXCLUDES a third weekend, that was in the middle of the work, where I dropped off the tank at Beaverton Radiator and let them take their own sweet time, as long as I got it back before the next weekend.

www.por-15.com "POR-15 Stops Rust Permanently Factory Direct and Guaranteed"