Need ignition help

[240zwinter]

which is why I suggested the Chrysler module.

What exact Chrysler module are you refering to? Is it the same 4 pin HEI that is used on GM's?

If not do you have a part number or a year/make for it?

Thanks.

[jmortensen]

The E12-80 module doesn't control the timing.

The distributor that it comes on does, and it is SUPER easy to install. Basically it plugs right into your timing cover, then you jump the ballast resistor, and there are two wires. One goes to the + side of the coil, the other to the - side. That's it. If you're going to jump the ballast you'll need to upgrade the coil as well, but pretty much any aftermarket coil will work.

You can usually get the ZX distributor with the module for ~$50 from a junkyard or ebay.

Black widows... that's another story. I've tried Raid, carb and brake cleaner, nothing seems to slow those bitches down except a shoe. ;-)

[jmortensen]

What exact Chrysler module are you refering to? Is it the same 4 pin HEI that is used on GM's?

If not do you have a part number or a year/make for it?

Thanks.

All of the early 80's V8 Chrysler products use the same module IIRC. I remember my friend asking for a module from an 83 Dodge van with a 318. But it's been years since I've talked to him and I can't remember for sure.

[240zwinter]

Ok thanks.

I just got off the phone with the Accel tech department and found out a few things.

The GM HEI Module (Accel 35361 and 35367) have NO RPM limit. The only difference is that the performance version (35367) that states a higher RPM range is due to the increased dwell. So a longer duration dwell is the only difference bewtween the two other than about $40.00 more.

They stated that a Accel (8140) super stock coil is ok to use but recomemd a (8145C) coil since it is meant for point'less aplications and will deliver a higher and more accurate spark at RPM. It does get hotter and they do recomend mounting it verticaly since it is oil filled and with better air flow for a longer life. Both coils are about the same price $30.00 bucks or so?

Note they DO NOT recomend a ballast in the coil/module/pick up loop.

[tttz]

240zwinter,

I sent you a pm about a pertronix setup.

-Ty

[mlc240z]

use a bigger hose.

ditto on the pertronix. works like a charm.

[240zwinter]

Found that a old toilet brush grabs the webs but also found out that Black Widows can jump!!!!

Anyway finnished the hydraulics and have the Dist. out and cleaned up a bit. Looking at the specs it seems this 280z dist has about half the advance cures of the 240z. Also it looks like it might have been peiced together as I see what appears to be point loabs on the shaft? I dont know if Datsun just carried over the same shaft and added a reluctor or what? See pic.

The Mitches book/site only shows the 79 Dist. with the module that is attached and the stator and reluctor are different than mine so its no help. I may go and see if I can find a complete unmolested Dist. with the numbers 30100 634 673 on it since that one almost matches the good 240z Dist. advance curves and should have the newer pick up and hopefully the IC module on it as well.

If I can not find a good Dist. anyone have a good site/link to a rebuild of a early 280z Dist.?

[Mat M]

Black widows... that's another story. I've tried Raid, carb and brake cleaner, nothing seems to slow those bitches down except a shoe. ;-)

WD-40 with a straw and a lighter. Just spray sparingly and on target. :rambo:

[240zwinter]

Just got back from all 3 pick-n-pulls in my area since it was 1/2 price day : )

I looked at every 280z, 280zx, maxima I could and almost every module was gone save for a few E12-92's that plug into the FI box.

I found a 83 ZX Turbo that I took the almost new re-manufactured 60 amp altenator and since it was a automatic I pulled the oil pump as well. Then I found a real clean Dist. from a 81 manual trans federal ZX with only 82k on it as well as the OEM replacement coil that was on it : )

The last thing was to find a elusive E12-80 module so the hunt began and I found one on of all cars a 1978 B210 carberated 4 cyl. car?

So it looks like I am set for the ignition system hopefully it all works.

I also pulled a set of headers from the same 81ZX and they are very thick steel and not rusted out. They have round ports but they should work on my E31 head?

So a good day for me and all for under $60.00.

A bit sore from helping my buddy take an entire front and rear drive train and suspension from a Miata for his A Mod car project.

I will see if she will fire soon and wanted to say thanks to all who offered parts and help/info.

[240zwinter]

Just wanted to say that she fired up and runs real good with 5 year old gas : )

Followed a wireing diagram from Z car home for the 280zx E12-80 set up and it works but it shows bridging the Ballast resistor rather than removing it?

Since the ZX Dist. and coil are 12 volt why would I need to leave the resistor in the system If I am not going back to points? Is there something else that needs the resistor to be in the loop even though it is bypassed by the bridge?

Just want to make sure before I remove it.

[jmortensen]

If the coil isn't originally designed for a full 12V you'll burn it out faster. If you're not sure just get an aftermarket coil and you'll be good to go. I just jumped my ballast, no reason to remove it entirely.

[beandip]

Just wanted to say that she fired up and runs real good with 5 year old gas : )

Followed a wireing diagram from Z car home for the 280zx E12-80 set up and it works but it shows bridging the Ballast resistor rather than removing it?

Since the ZX Dist. and coil are 12 volt why would I need to leave the resistor in the system If I am not going back to points? Is there something else that needs the resistor to be in the loop even though it is bypassed by the bridge?

Just want to make sure before I remove it.

The coil form the ZX is made to have a 12v supply , nothing else uses the lower voltage . Just remove he resister and connect the two wires together. Gary